Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yep. I'd love to see a HTA3582 on a twin cam RB30.

please someone do it with the neo 25 head for high-ish compression, VCT and decent lift cams in stock form.

Killer response combo with massive boostability. maybe mid 400's rwkw on E85? can't say for sure

There would be a power difference but I personally wouldn't go smaller than a HTA3582 on an RB30, remembering that the HTAs spool noticeably better than the GT, the difference between a GT3076R and a HTA3582 on a 3 litre should also not be a huge deal

In the GTX3067 thread it was expected that the compressor wheel being small would spool up fast, but with the 0.82 rear it would seem to be very on par with a GT3076 meaning that the

GT30 turbine has a big say in how things spool. So in the case of a HTA3582 can you be that confident that it would spool that much earlier than a normal GT3582 based on the GTX3067

results?

To go down the HTA35 route It would have to be giving a good push in the seat around 3000rpm to justify the expense over a cheaper GT3076 on a Dedicated street car, being GT35 hotside

with stock manifolds and pistons it would might not be able to justify itself being there as far as its power potential, and a GT3076 RB30 might leave it behind in the short city streets where the 2500-6000rpm is probably the sweet spot?

that's assuming they don't just leave black lines everywhere.

Edited by AngryRB

Ok, on stock manifolds I would possibly look at it differently... I am not sold on expecting to make good use of near 70lb/min turbos like that.

In regards to the GTX3067R results with .82 housing is in almost no way comparable to this, so many levels of different kettle of fish to this comparison.

If you want a general indicator of comparable HTA versus GT on the same turbine, check out 34GeeTeeTees post on the first page of the HTA thread.

I think you need to be serious enough money wise to justify the GT30/35 HTA turbos , at a certain gas speed the standard manifold will become a problem and the larger the engine is the more apparent that would become . Costs would escalate faster with header manifolds and gates and stealth dies a quick death .

Hard to say what size turbo (turbine size) is the limit on the factory manifold . Be interesting to see a 3076HTA and the 0.82 GT30 IW hanging off the standard one .

I think it's impossible to say that the GT30 turbine limits an RB30 because no ones ever tried one in the largest 1.06 IW turbine housing AFAIK . Again back to questionable turbine maps but the GT30 1.06 combination is vaguely similar to the GT35 0.82 combination . I reckon GT35 turbines are fine for driving 82mm compressors and maybe even the GTX76mm one but the GT30 doesn't do too badly on the 76mm GT or HTA compressor wheels .

If Mick o screwed 330 wheel wasps out of his RB25 with a 0.82 GTX3071R we know the stock manifold is at least that good . We don't know what a 1.06 GTX3076R or GT3076HTA would be like with this manifold on an RB30 , it may do even better .

Actually , RB30 would lift the turbo up off the engine mount with the HKS cast RB20/25 manifold . Mmm interesting possibilities and I got me one of them .

A .

PJ's dyno running a GT3076/3037 with HKS 1.06 (from memory) ex hsg on an SR20.

Over 500hp on E85. From memory it set some kind of Australian quarter mile record at the time in that state of tune.

PJGraph.jpg

Edited by juggernaut1

Yeah both Dave and I ran identical power on an RB with the GT3037/3076..... 363rwkw is where they stopped! Same dyno etc... This was with the 0.82 rear housing!

HKS did non gated T25 flanged GT30 turbine housings in 0.61 0.73 0.87 1.01 and I think 1.12 .

I guess this proves that the port through the T25 flange is big enough not to be a greater flow limiter than the volute passage .

The thing is that little flange wouldn't work too well if it had 6 runners merging into it .

Years ago someone in the States had a GT3037 52T in a HKS T25 flanged 0.73 housing and the tubular manifold was quite involved . Being in a FrWd Sentra B13 with an SR20 the manifold had the turbo out over the boxes bell housing and the ext gate was between the merge and the turbine housing inlet .

HKS housings had better formed passages and nozzles than Garrett production ones and looked more like the Tial ones of today .

Also people the "GT35" turbine housings are really machined out GT30 castings , the only GT35 turbine housings I've ever seen were diesel spec ones and they were probably GT40 housings with enough meat to take the smaller 35 wheel . Bitzer - GT3540 .

A .

I recall there was a R33 time attack car that made a change to the 1.06 housing, still on RB25. Can't recall whose thread it is in.

I agree the GT30 1.06 IW combination should do the job on a RB30. Wanted to go down that line with mine. Cost and availability of housings at the time weren't good and other demands of practicality/service dictated that the solution was high mount/external gate and stealth wasn't part of the mix - easy spanner checking of fasteners and easy removal of components was far more important.

With a few horror stories of the GT3582 failing on high boost setups, I think I'd steer to something else if chasing 500rwhp.

With a few horror stories of the GT3582 failing on high boost setups, I think I'd steer to something else if chasing 500rwhp.

Enter the GTX3576 on E85 and GTX3582..... :whistling:

Edited by juggernaut1

Gregs one did ok on his RB28, my old flogged GTX3076 managed 380kw on his auto with a stock engine bay, externally gated .82 Kando housing. Surely there is an easy 450kw in it with the right setup (1.06 rear) in a manual.

I think with the larger housing it would be perfect for a 30.

With a few horror stories of the GT3582 failing on high boost setups, I think I'd steer to something else if chasing 500rwhp.

That's weird eh - then you have 34GeeTeeTee burning around every track day he can with an HTA3076 making 500+whp and not exactly holding back with no issues :wub:

EFR all the things :)

That's weird eh - then you have 34GeeTeeTee burning around every track day he can with an HTA3076 making 500+whp and not exactly holding back with no issues :wub:

EFR all the things :)

All the track days :woot:

Mmm, I've done 6 track days with my Garret pushing 40psi up the straight... Why not flog a turbo hard?

Perhaps we shouldn't be running turbo's at all, I mean it's just another part to fail right?

Mmm, I've done 6 track days with my Garret pushing 40psi up the straight... Why not flog a turbo hard?

Perhaps we shouldn't be running turbo's at all, I mean it's just another part to fail right?

All the pushrods! :woot:

Gregs one did ok on his RB28, my old flogged GTX3076 managed 380kw on his auto with a stock engine bay, externally gated .82 Kando housing. Surely there is an easy 450kw in it with the right setup (1.06 rear) in a manual.

I think with the larger housing it would be perfect for a 30.

One of the Ford boys on Xr6turbo made just under 450rwks with an internal gated GTX3576 (1.06) through a ZF on E85 with just a tune, injectors, cooler and exhaust so the compressor is able to flow that sort of power.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...