Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, i'm very seriously thinking of trading in my 1986 Ford Sierra Turbo on a R32 GTS-t that i've found sitting in a yard here in Brisbane.

Now, i was just wondering what sort of things i should look out for with these cars? what are the common problems i should look out for before buying it, etc etc?

I know its had a minor front end hit at some stage (bonnet and grille have been replaced with original GTR items, front bar was replaced, radiator support has been repaired and front guards were straightened) but apart from that i can't see any accident damage etc.

Its only got simple mods from what i can see (BOV, K&N pod filter, 'drift' style steering wheel, clutch feels heavier than normal, harder springs)

its got 154,000km (appear to be original... non wound-back)

other than that a very straight, and clean example... so, what should i look for, as i've never owned a skyline before

Thanks in advance

Jason

Get it looked over by a workshop before buying.

I know it is a long drive from Brissy, but I recommend taking it to Gavin Woods Autotech down here on the Gold Coast as he is a Nissan specialist. He does a full inspection (goes over the car with a fine tooth comb) and will tell you of any exisiting problems and ones that are about to happen, i.e like engine breathing, cooling system rusty, turbo shaft play etc etc.

They are all things that would breeze through a roadworthy but would cost you shit loads 3-4 months down the track.

My SAU $0.02

for general first inspection, just check out under wheel wells, as mentioned. asked what is been repaired, look for rust etc around those areas.. look under carpet etc in boot, look under the car, have a check if wheels are the same distance from front bar , side skirts(if not, can show damage of contact with kerbs etc).. test drive etc have a look around gaskets for leaks before and after test drive...

if then nothing puts you off, take it to a trusted mechanic for a details report..

Look at the fron wheels and see if they both are the same distance fron the bottom edge of the guards.

you may find ont og them has been pushed back half an inch. this can mean big problems, as your tyres will scrub when turning and you wont be able to get a correct wheel alignment.

best bet is to get it up on a hoist and have a good look under to see if its all straight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...