Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Need your help with this one. I am looking to buy a Slyline 370 SP and have shortlisted a couple of cars with Jap Auto World & Nagoya Motors(Have a time & finance constraint, hence can't import). My questions are:

  • Has anyone had any good / bad experiences with any of the above dealers.
  • One of them has sent me the Dereg papers for the car. Can you please let me know if there is anything obviously wrong with this.
  • I am planning to get an NRMA inspection done on the car I select. Anything else I should be doing?

Thanks

post-135578-0-35437000-1405428151_thumb.jpg

I got my stagea from nagoya motors and have had no problems with them I found Alexi to be very helpful even got different tyres put on the car for me as the ones on the car were a brand I wasn't familiar with at not cost haven't had any issues with then even after the car died after shopping one day as the battery was old he sorted towing and a replacement battery very helpful I will highly recommend them. Happy shopping mate.

Doesn't look like a dereg Certs, but an export cert, simply posting the details I'd the car as it was shipped.

A dereg will state two different dates and the recorded mileage at the points.

Why not use one of the jap history check companies to find the auction papers and Certs, it's a small price to pay for the investment of a car.

So, the car was travelling 12,733kms per year on average for the first 3 years of it's life. According to RAWS that car was imported in April 2013 (http://raws.infrastructure.gov.au/rawswebpublic/RAWPubVehSearch.asp), implying it spent at least another two years in Japan after March 2011.

The dealer is asking you to believe that in those two years, the car suddenly only travelled 3,800kms.

Did you try asking the dealer for the auction papers?

Edited by dodgyimports

Don't bother with an NRMA check - generally RAA/NRMA are freaking useless with imports. Take it to your nearest import specialist/workshop and get them to look it over.

And as dodgy said above, get the auction papers. Something sounds fishy. Don't trust a car salesman as far as you can kick them. And don't believe them about any implied or specific warranty - they are not worth the paper they are printed on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...