Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Overrun/overrev on downshift.

Also, and by the way, when you say "wedge" do you mean the ridge of high timing running along the top, or do you mean the little dip right at the end closest to the viewer?

that little dip in orange and yellow closest to viewer - just two values of 30 affect this.

Nope, had a play in Excel, those two values of 30 are a big jump from the adjacent LHS values of 40 & 43, making them say 38, 39 smooths it out, the tuner was probably eating his pizza and forgot that - but then again I doubt these two odd cells will do 'anything' to how it drives.

Saying that - what do you guys think of that purple 'hole' in my fuel map (mid rpms, low/mid load), is it dodgy or kinda ok? These are values from 84-94 on this area of the table

Edited by rondofj

Fuel map looks fine. RB25 motors like less fuel around 50kPA when compared to near absolute or 0 kPA

Also around that area timing starts to decay when compared to higher vacuum areas.

It's normal man, you can't just look at the fuel map and go "oh mah gord deres a fuel hole"

Simply put it the motor isn't needing fuel around there to hit stoich.

  • Like 1

Cool man I take up your offer of swapping afms in the weekend, but I think I will need it for at least a coupla hours to test in diff loads/conditions if thats ok? And also if u can come for a quick drive to monitor things who knows u find something I didnt. And James Squire will be there too so dont worry.

Datalogit kit is money wasted just to diagnose a problem/quote]

You won't do this but you will buy a new ECU? And the old ECU had data logging? And you don't like how the car drives and this issue has been happening for moths and you have spent countless hours trying to solve the issue?

Ok.

  • Like 1

So eventually when you manage to log what's happening, and see that the ecu Is jumping cells, due to the afm being affected by the bov return, what are you going to do then? The afm can't be faulty only when lifting off the throttle.

The only two options here are shit tune or an issue with the bov return. The tuner is well respected, and it's pretty hard to do a shit tune on a power fc after I'm sure he has done 100s. So that leaves the bov return.

So eventually when you manage to log what's happening, and see that the ecu Is jumping cells, due to the afm being affected by the bov return, what are you going to do then? The afm can't be faulty only when lifting off the throttle.

The only two options here are shit tune or an issue with the bov return. The tuner is well respected, and it's pretty hard to do a shit tune on a power fc after I'm sure he has done 100s. So that leaves the bov return.

I am sure you mentioned this on page 2 of this thread....

well as I've said a few times already - I'm not too concerned with the power loss on shifts right now (its a MINOR issue and is most likely the bov return as others have said). What I am concerned about is where has my power gone the last 3-4 weeks without changing anything and the rich running (fouled plugs, fuel smell, fouled O2 sensor)/ fuel economy is my main problem that I'm trying to fix. We will see about the economy on my next fill-up as I changed the O2 sensor - but expect bugger all difference.

Which leaves AFM as suggested by some.

And tune? Well you've all seen my tune now haven't you, are you able to tell if its shit or not cos I have no idea

So eventually when you manage to log what's happening, and see that the ecu Is jumping cells, due to the afm being affected by the bov return, what are you going to do then? The afm can't be faulty only when lifting off the throttle.

The only two options here are shit tune or an issue with the bov return. The tuner is well respected, and it's pretty hard to do a shit tune on a power fc after I'm sure he has done 100s. So that leaves the bov return.

well as I've said a few times already - I'm not too concerned with the power loss on shifts right now (its a MINOR issue and is most likely the bov return as others have said). What I am concerned about is where has my power gone the last 3-4 weeks without changing anything and the rich running (fouled plugs, fuel smell, fouled O2 sensor)/ fuel economy is my main problem that I'm trying to fix. We will see about the economy on my next fill-up as I changed the O2 sensor - but expect bugger all difference.

Which leaves AFM as suggested by some.

And tune? Well you've all seen my tune now haven't you, are you able to tell if its shit or not cos I have no idea

Reversion will cause the symptoms your are describing

Its hard to look at a tune map and know anything about it without seeing its effect on the motor

Your timing isn't to far out there, maybe a bit advanced at high rpm low load but nothing that is going to cause the issues you are describing

Disconnect your BOV from inlet pipe and vent to atmo and see if power lose is still there, that will either confirm or rule out reversion

Yep will do that cheers. Meanwhile figured out how to do a map trace. Still a noob u see .

See pics -1st one is a 10-12min cruise to shops, parra to granville in syd, traffic lights, stops max 50/60km/h NO boost.

2nd one is same drive back with three 2nd/3rd gear pulls at 21psi max. So does it look like its accessing the right cells or has it gone a bit gay?

post-49401-14087614573931_thumb.jpgpost-49401-14087614714458_thumb.jpg

Edited by rondofj

Looks fine, however with logs with a wideband connected to it will easily show you what's going on.

It's hard to say what it is and not doing because the load axis is an interpretation of TPS and AFM voltage

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
×
×
  • Create New...