Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

I would have agreed with that (Ben) as well, thats how I always set my timing before - pfc commander always shows 15 degrees hot idle - I set it at 20 (on harmonic balancer) now cos thats what it used to drive like before and thats where the bolts on cas / my marker was. Before taking it off.

Could be my timing gun is off or actual cam timing belt has skipped >> screwdriver test thru sparkplug hole with engine at TDC. Faaark do I have to take off fan and rad again (to turn engine manually). So hard to get to fan bolts.

Edited by rondofj

No you can get to the crank pulley bolt from underneath the shroud

Maybe you should take the top timing cover off and put the crank on tdc mark and take a photo of where your cam pulleys are at

  • Like 1

Yep what Ben and gtsboy say.... This is what I originally said a few pages back when I was looking through a log.

It's been said multiple times by multiple people!

Ron, are you using a lead or the wire loop that never works correctly method with your timing gun?

lead to no1 plug that works correctly of course

So to clarify.

A plug lead in between no 1 coil and plug. As in remove the coil and put a plug lead onto it, then plug that onto the plug?

Doesn't mean it doesn't exist. Just not adjustable perhaps.

However I do remember there's a 2D table water temp (static) vs. Ignition trim.

By default all the values are 0 on FC Edit.

This is why I mentioned half a dozen times you need a data logit kit to make sense of this

So to clarify.

A plug lead in between no 1 coil and plug. As in remove the coil and put a plug lead onto it, then plug that onto the plug?

yeh exactly, dont see how else it could be done - and the gun goes off that in-between lead

How so interesting ?

That pic is how it should be done if the pickup at the rear is no good

Which is most of the time

Why don't you just get a proper mechanic to check you cam timing and set the base timing

I'm sure Unigroup wouldn't charge you more than $100 to set it and check it

As it has already took you how long and to set it and still it's not right

$100 is worth the less headache and unreliable grenade engine if it's taken on the track and pinging hard

Wow just did this- timing gun straight off no1 coil wire (no in-between leads) and it shows 15 on both harmonic balancer AND PFC commander! Disconnect TPS and it shows 21 on PFC AND harmonic balancer. No

f#%^king around with the CAS or anything. I had set it dead correct back then.

Running straight off coil wire is easier but not stable it shows timing then goes blank, shows timing then blank every 3-4 secs. With in-between lead its rock steady timing displayed.

Thats it no more stuffing around with timing, it was proper after all.post-49401-14102552872501_thumb.jpgpost-49401-14102553065654_thumb.jpg

Edited by rondofj

I just open the slide on the pickup and hold it against the back of No1 coil :yes:

I find it odd that you want the best possible o2 sensor mounted as close as possible to the engine, but set the timing using that method that seems pretty half arsed. Have you compared it to using a lead in between?

Wow just did this- timing gun straight off no1 coil wire (no in-between leads) and it shows 15 on both harmonic balancer AND PFC commander! Disconnect TPS and it shows 21 on PFC AND harmonic balancer. No

f#%^king around with the CAS or anything. I had set it dead correct back then.

Running straight off coil wire is easier but not stable it shows timing then goes blank, shows timing then blank every 3-4 secs. With in-between lead its rock steady timing displayed.

Thats it no more stuffing around with timing, it was proper after all.attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1410255281.384884.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1410255302.376683.jpg

What do you mean straight off the wire?

What XKLABA said. The gun connected straight onto no1 coil wire/lead that comes from loom. Coil still sitting directly on plug, no in-between lead

Edited by rondofj

I find it odd that you want the best possible o2 sensor mounted as close as possible to the engine, but set the timing using that method that seems pretty half arsed. Have you compared it to using a lead in between?

Lol, yeah bit weird, have tried it and tested that method over 10 year ago when setting the cam gears on the 32, there is no manual timing adjustment on the 34, Ross trigger wheel, I mathematically worked out what the timing mark on the 34 was which was then checked by Scott to be spot on and the rest is done by the Syvecs

I want the O2 where I want it because it will send its signal directly to the Syvecs and not to a gauge on the dash, and the closer I can get it to the engine the sooner the ECU will get an idea of what is happening in the engine, and yes I know how long it will take for the gas to move 1m down the exhaust and don't care, an engine spinning at 7000rpm does a lot in that time

Plus I have two ports filled with O2 sensors not getting used so may as well use them

The sensors I have ordered are NTK LZA09-E1s which are OEM sensors for the hypo Hondas which is what the Syvecs is pre programmed for

What XKLABA said. The gun connected straight onto no1 coil wire/lead that comes from loom. Coil still sitting directly on plug, no in-between lead

Um no, hold it against the white bit on the side of the coil oppersite the plug, the pick up will pick up the coil firing

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...