Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, Amir here

Finally found a decent base to start my modest track build. Bought her on the weekend, 1997 S2 R33 gts-t finished in QM1 and will henceforth be known as the “White Cloud”.

This will be a slow and modest build as I am relatively new to the track scene. Main objective with this build will be handling and modest power and above all offcourse is my and the car’s safety.

White Cloud came with the following:

Stainless Steel turbo-back exhaust with highflow cat (yes, because the fact that its shiny, blinggy stainless steel matters);

Splitfire coil packs;

Electronic boost controller;

Coilovers (JIC I think – will need to be changed);

Vented rotors at the front

Heavy duty clutch and lightened flywheel;

Wicked Sick 12” Subwoofer and Alpine Amp which were ripped out the day I bought it;

Nismo shift knob because stock shift knobs are for PU**IES my friend; and

A few other bits and pieces that add or subtract nothing to or from performance so who cares mentioning them?

On the short term to do list are the following:

17” rims (haven’t decided which ones yet, thinking of Stock R33 GTR/Enkei rpf 1) and semi slicks;

New racing brake pads, high boiling fluid and brake ducts;

New suspension and other bushes;

Return flow FMIC;

Upgraded fuel pump (walbro or bosch in tank);

A tune;

New alloy radiator;

Oil cooler;

Fixed back bucket seat and harness; and

Some other bits and pieces to get it track ready.

On the long term to do list are the following:

High flow turbo (keeping it as stock as possible);

Exhaust manifold;

Full strip and cage;

Aftermarket ECU; and

Who knows where it will end up.

Body wise I will keep the car as stock looking as possible. Lower it a bit, new rims and that’s about it really. The car is registered and I intend to keep it that way.

First thing I intend to do (well second considering the first thing done was ripping out the sub and amp) is take care of some rust beneath the bonnet just above the fenders. I will get stuck into that either tonight or sometime this week.

I will upload picture of white cloud and the work I do as I go. Watch this space.

Please Note: I do not have any of the items I intend to buy/install so if anyone has any of the items listed please let me know.

Cheers, Amir

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446405-amirs-r33-gts-t-build/
Share on other sites

Did a little stripping on the weekend (to raise some cash for the build) and took out the stereo and all the unnecessary wires along with the rear seat, carpet and a bunch of other things. I think for now I will only strip out the rear half of the car and keep the front in full street trim. Will probably get some dry ice to remove sound deadener in next couple of weeks.

And now for some crappy iphone pictures....

post-95760-0-68614600-1407647885_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-49768700-1407647913_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-88104300-1407647941_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-12728400-1407648008_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-78012500-1407648030_thumb.jpg

Looks like a very clean car to be striped and turned into a track car.

Nice base to start with none the less.

Hey Michael. Its certainly a cleaner example. The interior is flawless and the car has been taken care off. That's why I intend to keep everything I take off the car and store it so that if I want to go back to stock then I can do that.

Cheers,

Amir

  • Like 1

Stripped more of the rear end tonight. Its now completely done. No point posting pictures of that. One thing Im unsure about is how to get rid of the sound deadener on the slopy bits (where the back rest of the back seat sits and near the wheel wells) by using dry ice. And Im worried that some of the wiring will freeze up and break. Any ideas?

I was given a nice 1kg fire extinguisher so will bolt that in sometime soon.

Still looking for suitable rims. I want to go 17" but for the life of me I cant find a set with all the correct dimensions. I was thinking something like 17x9 with 35 or similar offset. If anyone has any let me know.

Also looking for the parts in my sig (appart from oil cooler which should be arriving soon).

Cheers

Amir

post-95760-0-47551600-1407765641_thumb.jpg

very small progress. Finally found and bought the rims I want. 17x9 rota grid R. Now need to sort out tires.Thinking of going 245/40 but we'll see.

Also bought a Walbro fuel pump of a member on here.

I plan to strip out the sound deadening this weekend, install the fuel pump and if my oil cooler get here then hopefully install that too.

Cheers

Amir

post-95760-0-64588100-1408022983_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-09584200-1408023036_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-91505500-1408023067_thumb.jpg

Finally got the fuel pump sorted after much swearing and frustration. But its all wired up and working fine for now. They are a very noisy pump; especially with the interior stripped out.

Next on the list are tires, the oil cooler and return flow intercooler as well as stripping out the sound deadening and painting the interior.

Amir

Rota's are heavy and are knock off's. I would sell em and go for enkei rpf1 or r33 gtr wheels. Rolling weight is quite important. You are stripping the car of weight then adding weight to it by buying heavy wheels.

Semi's, do some research on here

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=EP

Agreed on the rotas mate. Initially I wanted rpf1 but dont know how I ended up taking a different route. I think I will keep them for now and see how I go and later on get the rpf1 or 33R rims. Any idea how much they weigh? The Rotas I have are around the 8kg mark I think.

Cheers for the input

Amir

17x 9.5 16.7lbs Enkei

http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-tires-wheels-brakes-suspension-sponsored-tire-rack/319078-weight-17x9-5-enkei-rpf1-sbc.html

18x9.5 wheel rota grid 22.5lbs

http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47736

even if you added an extra pound to the 17" wheel it will still be around 5lbs per side difference. That is huge

Alright so I just found out my old lady has a pretty good camera so I took some photos of the car as is. Will upload better quality photos as I go.

Also got my oil cooler from a forum member, gave it a bit of a degrease and will try fit it on weekend.

Cheers

Amir

post-95760-0-31389400-1408717462_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-99788500-1408717534_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-90366300-1408717613_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-98325600-1408717658_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-83116800-1408717705_thumb.jpg

post-95760-0-51410500-1408717889_thumb.jpg

Did more work on the weekend. Starter stripping out the sound deadener with dry ice, it works really well. Most of the car is done but there are still a few more patches. Also had a friend install the oil cooler which is good.

Plans for this week are tires and intercooler.

Cheers

Amir

The oil cooler would scare me mounted like that, id be worried about about the possibility of some thing hitting those connections that hang low. I mounted mine up the other way so the connections were safe and mounted it high

The oil cooler would scare me mounted like that, id be worried about about the possibility of some thing hitting those connections that hang low. I mounted mine up the other way so the connections were safe and mounted it high

I see what your saying. I was going to mount it vertically but my friend went ahead and did it this way while I was stripping out the sound deadening. There's plenty of clearance but if it becomes an issue I will mount it vertically.

Cheers for the input

Amir

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...