Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

To the engine

That should be 240rwkws, our billet ATR43ss15 will do the job nicely. You can check out my thread or site under ATR28, the G2 and SS15 SR20det result should be very close to the RB20det in terms of response.

Start reading books before you start anything. If you don't understand basic engine combustion principles then you'll kill the car

I read up more on engine combustion and engines with turbos. I understand the basic principle, iginition, timing,fuel, air. I also read how the manufactorers tune cars from the factory to try to stay as close to the 14.7.1 air/fuel ratio settings to keep the car from running rich or lean.

Is this one of the values that a tuner tries to keep when tuning a car?

Do you know where I can get good imformation about what values I need to look for when tuning?

14.7 will cause engine explosion under load. Ona turbo you will need to be richer than 12:1. 14.7 will only work at low loads and cruise.

It is a big subject. There is plenty of info out there on how to tune, but if you are that much of a novice, do not even consider trying to tune your car until you have been around tuning and tuners and done a lot of reading and so on and so forth for quite a long time.

Even so under 12:1 isn't the magic number.. some motors like richer AFRs at max VE to keep knock levels down and then AFRs can even lean out to 12.5 AFR as load drops.

Not to mention richer AFRs will promote more torque where as leaner AFRs will promote more power... but say you're running low timing at peak torque you also want richer AFRs to keep things cooler on the exhaust side.

I really really suggest you pay a tuner to tune your car before you lunch a motor.

14.7 will cause engine explosion under load. Ona turbo you will need to be richer than 12:1. 14.7 will only work at low loads and cruise.

It is a big subject. There is plenty of info out there on how to tune, but if you are that much of a novice, do not even consider trying to tune your car until you have been around tuning and tuners and done a lot of reading and so on and so forth for quite a long time.

ok

Even so under 12:1 isn't the magic number.. some motors like richer AFRs at max VE to keep knock levels down and then AFRs can even lean out to 12.5 AFR as load drops.

Not to mention richer AFRs will promote more torque where as leaner AFRs will promote more power... but say you're running low timing at peak torque you also want richer AFRs to keep things cooler on the exhaust side.

I really really suggest you pay a tuner to tune your car before you lunch a motor.

ok

Good starting point on AFRs.. short and sweet article.. please note this applies to gasoline only.. if you try and use those AFRs with E85 you might end up misfiring

http://tunertools.com/articles/AFR-Tuning.asp

I'm still pretty new to E85 and only tuned 2x so far, however I find E85 likes to be leaner rather than richer.. I tend to get phantom knock & misfires as the AFRs drop.

Good starting point on AFRs.. short and sweet article.. please note this applies to gasoline only.. if you try and use those AFRs with E85 you might end up misfiring

http://tunertools.com/articles/AFR-Tuning.asp

I'm still pretty new to E85 and only tuned 2x so far, however I find E85 likes to be leaner rather than richer.. I tend to get phantom knock & misfires as the AFRs drop.

Thank you

Rb20dets are similar to a S13 SR20det. The ideal turbine will be some thing off a .64 rear. Which our ATR43SS1 and 1.5 are made very specifically for Rb20det that has the OEM bolton pattern.

Which would be better, this or your high flow service?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
    • Probably. I take it that they are also mentioned to be for R34 Skyline? For example.... RDA has that part as RDA7957. I have the dimpled and slotted version of that on my car https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/285518478694?srsltid=AfmBOopKxMuAFpsxZJdB1cam4D5RAj1f9yJyOttPZLAwXVNCOiwlhrIy This is DBA's top one piece equivalent https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364246686631?srsltid=AfmBOorbb0XHQgqTvZLgQPhg70nqJtGvdojKnugum3O2LFSr2h-obp8D  
    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
×
×
  • Create New...