Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK Team,

I am rather underwhelemd... No, that's an understatement.

I just went to get a pink slip in Queanbeyan, NSW, and was knocked back. Totally normal for somthing happering safety, but here's the thing...

For being too loud...!

WTF?

So this guy, who I have been going to for 8 + years now has a DB meter and has nailed me?

C'mon.. It's not a blue slip.

And also, he passed me last year in the same Skyrine and I have had a 330 n/a KW V8 that sounded like the world was comming to an end passed 3 yrs ago..

So what is the deal? Have the regulation changed that much? I though it was just the Po Po you had to worry about?

Any way, now I'm going to have to change the exhaust for a pink slip every year. It's only running 270KW. What is the point?

VENT / RANT!

Yes Anthony, that was my first thought that I got unlucky. But really for a DB level on a pinkslip? With a trusted mechanic?

I should mention that I got pinged on the rear spoiler brake light being out, but I said fix it and am happy to pay them for it.

But maybe it is the signs! haha. At least someone has noticed! I won't be taking my awesome 1.2 litre barina tow car there Lulz.

Anthony, Yes.. Get your Dad to call me! I want more work! Haha.

Rob, you mad Skyrine fiend. I'm not sure on the DB level, but it was loud at the last SAUwakie day when they had a meter. I'll look it up. But it only has an Xforce turbo back and only makes a modest 270 odd RWKW, so c'mon is not so bad when how many harley's are around.

But Blue slip are over the PITS deal (when you are ungegistered / change state etc). Pink is the check it over and make sure it's safe for the next year.

This is why I'm having kittens, as I have probably the cleanest S2 4 Door in the country (I know Rob you have a S1) Lulz !

Rob,

I looked it up and this was what my car returned full throttle on Wakefield:

"When measured from the dummy grid you were fine, i forget the exact number but something around 87.2 or 87.4. When measured from the pit wall you were over by 1 or 2, but that doesnt matter as the measurement is meant to be at 30m. FYI at scruit I measured a car at 30m, driver was holding the pedal flat to the floor, it couldnt get past 79db. So as we expected, every metre away makes a huge difference. That's also standing with the sensor aimed directly at the noise source, which isnt how it's meant to be done, i wanted to give each car the best chance to fail and all was fine. We did the same thing for sessions on track, testing a lap of a certain car going full noise from pit wall then 10m back, then 20m back, then 30m back - so it's all good."

So Yeah I'm well pissed.

Mine failed ACT REGO check at 92db nearly 4 years ago. Limit is 90db. (that was with Blitz Canon with silencer bung in but was MUCH louder in Bungless form)

Not sure what is now though with the straight thru Magnaflow muffler.

Thanks for explaining the NSW system to a born and raised Canberran! :thumbsup:

and FYI... mine is also Series 2.

Harley argument... They are noisey bitches from factory and slow.

Our cars are quietish from factory and just Totally Tits in general! may not justify but it sounds good. :laugh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...