Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I put new tie rod ends in with the help of a friend since the old ones were shot (R33 S2 GTST). When I reversed the car out of the driveway afterwards I heard some clanks like something was settling. A day later after driving around I decided to take a look as I wasnt sure if the tie rods were seated proplerly. Do they look they are sitting all the way in the grove or do they need to come up more?

My friend fitted them but he did not hammer them in or screw them in, just hand pushed upwards. It was my undertstanding that they either need to be hammered in or threated in by some other means to lock proplery and then you fit the nut. The nut was hand tightened and a split pin fitted.

Left side.

1rejgu7IlicPc1kn917LdaOXbaTTS51.jpg

Right side.

1AmNOYGKLDFx4sZT8VHpgq42XIUSx.jpg

Here I put a jack under it to see if they can be further pressed in. I jacked it up a bit with a plank of wood but it didnt move. I did not put much force on the back but it was enough to move the suspension up about 5cm.

1qRlNkzFcLez9Rb8qHfEGP84uEDVin.jpg

Do they need to be greased up with a grease gun or do they come pre greased? When I looked inside them I saw some clear red grease so I assumed they came pre greased. The rubber looks kind of deflated, not sure if thats normal. They came with a hole in them for grease and a screw which I screwed in. Check out that rubber scrtech! Doesnt look like the boot will last long.

1c8OfiI0h9rZQdHnkWGOQi2cSeaeB0.jpg

Edited by sonicz

Thread them on to the tie rod, then tighten nut until you can get the split pin in then grease them. The rubber boot does it's own thing if you haven't twisted it just leave it.

Also be cautious of your toe alignment you may need a wheel alignment.

Edited by dyl33

Didnt touch the alligment bolt and the allignment is fine. WHat do you mean by thread them on? With what? I tried to tighten the nut but it got pretty hard and the rod didnt move up anymore anyway.

So you are saying the do need to be greased up? Does the boot need to be swelled up with grease or not?

Edited by sonicz

as above, they thread on

to check it get your mate to shake the steering back and fourth and see if the ball joint "pops".. if it does its fecked but I doubt you stuffed up installing it

that boot looks twisted in that last photo btw

as above, they thread on

to check it get your mate to shake the steering back and fourth and see if the ball joint "pops".. if it does its fecked but I doubt you stuffed up installing it

that boot looks twisted in that last photo btw

They are brand new so I doubt the ball joint is popping. I mean if the rod is inserted all the way up into the hole, not of the ball joint is loose. Cant anybody telll based on the pic if thats how high they need to come up?

Here they are out of the car

$_12.JPG

Guys just to clarify I only doubt if they are sitting all the way up into the hole. And I dont understand what you guys mean they need to be threaded up. Using what? The nut provided? What sort of tool is required and how much torque etc. Once the thread went into the hole it was pushed in and the nut wasn't used to bring it any higher up.

Mate, if you have the right part and the nut is tight, the hole in the thread is protruding enough past the nut to get the split pin in then its good to go..

If you put enough grease in that it looks like its going to explode the boot then that's too much

Isn't it a lot easier to just do as GTSBoy suggested and tighten them up more and then pump some grease into them rather than worrying about it?

Then you know that it is done right.

Does your mate have any idea what he was doing? Why do you doubt him?

From the photos I would say that they do not look like they have been pulled up enough. Take the split pins out, put a spanner on them and wind them in until they start to take some real force.

Then add some grease.

Thanks. I done that however the nut could not be tightened much further without me not feeling comfortable pushing the thread torque more. The tie rods did not move any further up just the force on the nut increased. I had to back out to fit the split pin again and relieve that amount of torque.

However that said I tried to dislodged them downwards too as in the way you would remove them and I could not either. I did not want to hammer then outs with a massive amount of force in case something was not right. Its possible if the did not sit up all the way originally, from the force of driving around there was a groove dug into the metal.

Anyway guess have to take it to a shop to have it checked out unless anybody from here is willing to have a look at it very very soon?

Edited by sonicz

Didnt touch the alligment bolt and the allignment is fine. WHat do you mean by thread them on? With what? I tried to tighten the nut but it got pretty hard and the rod didnt move up anymore anyway.

So you are saying the do need to be greased up? Does the boot need to be swelled up with grease or not?

I can almost guarantee the alignment will be out. You will scrub your tyres and waste money.

In general its simple though, if the taper is the same on the pin and wheel assembly, it should go together by hand and shouldnt wobble about.

Putting a jack under the tie rod to provide force is helpful to hold the pin up while you tighten the bolt, however you should not be applying force to the grease fitting directly. A hole drilled into the wood would have put the force onto the body of the tie rod.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...