Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

pulse timing is a whole map calculation however like GTSboy says it is more noticable at idle and light load due to the fact the injector is opening and closing at a slower rate therefore making the latency timing more important.....its often a struggle to get larger injectors to idle well anyway...however newer tech injectors don't seem to suffer the same issues.

pulse timing is a whole map calculation however like GTSboy says it is more noticable at idle and light load due to the fact the injector is opening and closing at a slower rate therefore making the latency timing more important.....its often a struggle to get larger injectors to idle well anyway...however newer tech injectors don't seem to suffer the same issues.

bump up the idle RPM to around 900~1000rpm and run it pig rich :D

The cheap man pays twice... As you just found out.

Any Sard injectors will have similar issues, and they get worse the larger they are.

I can get new 550cc sidefeeds to suit the 33 that will run fine, but that is the largest they can supply. For anything else you will need to fork out for genuine Nismo's, or swap to a top feed setup which work out around the same price.

I've been running sard 650s in my 93 liner for 9 years with the first round of PFC with supporting mods no probs,it's all with the tune,

I have been using a fantastic PFC tuner in Sydney, hi yavuz. :-)

Ok just gave all the suggestions a go, no luck

Didn't hydro lock the engine when I started it so that probably rules leaking O rings out

The car doesn't want to stall anymore, would go back to idle fine at traffic lights, unlike yesterday when I was playing with the latency. Idle holds steady and is actually driveable. Just down on power and feels like it's running on 5 cylinders.

I haven't had time to check if it's actually a bad injector just yet, could only confirm that it's not #1 caus it's the easiest one to get to

Btw these 540s should be the same injector series as those 650s, same shape, both twin sprays just different colour.

If it works fine on ur car it should be fine on mine, providing that there's no damaged injectors and it's set up properly

Edited by chiksluvit

I had my tuner do all the work,I do 30000 a year

hope you get it sorted.A lot of mechs put the sards

in the two hard basket but some can get it right,

where are you? I will recommend my tuner,uni group engineering in Sydney

yavuz is the genious with the PFC and what not. :-)

one thing you can do is grab a long screw driver stick it to your ear and put it on to each of the injector metal covers and listen for it ticking....if you don't hear one ticking it could be stuck... all 6 of my freshly flow tested 850's were stuck....

Thanks guys

Yeah I had both nismos and Sards in two of my old cars and felt the Sards did the job just as well. Sure it wasn't exactly as easy as the nismos but I didn't have to worry about breaking the pintle caps when putting them in

At least the Sards are probably easier to pull out now because it uses Allen key bolts, just maybe not the #5 and 6

Yeah I'm in sydney but I've always gone to Toshi to get my cars tuned, since he just lives around the corner for me

Will try the screwdriver trick thanks Badgaz!

Edited by chiksluvit

Ok here's the latest update

Tried the screw driver trick, could hear all injectors going

Pulled the plugs on #1, 2 and 6, all seems to affect the engine. Couldn't get to the plugs on 3, 4 and 5

So went back in the car and tried to adjust the latency on individual injectors, individual changes made to 2- 6 affects idle except for #1 cylinder.

I could put the latency correction to -1 and it won't make any difference, yet if I pull the plug then it will. So it seems like #1 injectors delivering fuel but not responding to latency changes

Can this happen? I thought injectors either die or alive?

PFC is brand new when a bought it a couple of mths ago, so I doubt it's the ECU

do you have a wideband? if you can get the afr's roughly right it should be driveable.... you'll need to get it to a tuner with a fcdatalogit.

Nuh I don't have a wideband

It is driveable, just lack of power and sounds like wrx, I already took it around the block a couple of times today when testing it. Lucky toshi doesn't live too far away so I can get the car to him once I replace #1 injector if it is a dud

At least if it's really #1 then I won't have to pull the rail out again, it's easy to access that injector

I'm just puzzled at how it could be possible that an injector is delivering fuel but not respond to adjustments made while others do, in both fuel % and latency

not much he can do about it now

he reckons its likely that either one of the injector's dud or ECU or coilpack is stuffed

seeing it was runnings 100% before the injectors i guess one of the injectors needs to be replaced :/

will be checking the spark plugs later

Update: as Toshi has suggested I've taken the spark plugs out and had a look at it

they were all running rich judging by the spark plugs, this is from cyl 1, the rest all pretty much looked the same

tn_gallery_27668_5717_21799.jpg

AFAIK they all still produce spark- engine drop revs when each of the injectors were unplugged, including #1

Only thing suss- cyl # 1 injector doesn't respond to changes on the PFC

Changes on every other injector affects idle

so could be the PFC, could be the injector. The PFC is only 6 mths old and injectors were also new

:/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...