Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok well i lost my car keys 2 days ago. and ive pretty much given up looking for them... but i dont have a spare key and the car is stuck at my cousins house

what can i do? can i get a key moulded to my current lock? or do i have to get a new one???

this has been pissing me off all weekend! does anyone have any ideas?

First get into the car, maybe a coathanger ? Then remove one of the doorlocks and take it to a locksmith on Monday.

He will be able to dismantle the lock and measure the pins. From this he will be able to make you a key. If it works, get several made !

Hide a spare key somewhere under the car where it cannot be seen. Or maybe bolt a spare key behind the numberplate or something.

Then one day when you loose your keys at 4AM, out in the middle of nowhere, in the pissing rain, with no money in your pocket, you will be o/k !

i know what its like. I sorta did the same thing. Was on holiday in Byron Bay and couldnt find the keys anywhere on the day we were meant to leave.

Lucky wrx's are easy to break into, so we managed to pack the car, go to the pub and forget about it.

Found the keys 2 days later in one of the girls handbags.... felt stupid, but we got 2 extra days of holiday!

Originally posted by Dragon18

if you lose your keys that means u cant start your car anywayz coz

of the immobiliser and alaram hehe

hehe just do what my dad does (being the extra cautious Camry driver he is :D )

he's got a key and a spare remote for the security system tucked away up in one of the bumpers. It's tied up with heaps of wire so it can't come loose and it's in a sealed plastic bag so that no water or dirt gets in.. :D

Well I also have an alarm/immobiliser and steering wheel lock. Both front doorlocks are disconnected so a thief cannot twist the locks around with a large screwdriver. That is how I lost my last car.

If I lose my keys, or the battery in the remote goes flat, my system is as follows.

Get the spare key from under the car, get into the rear boot. Inside the boot I have a spre remote for the alarm to gain entry, and a spare key for the steering wheel lock.

Originally posted by Warpspeed

If I lose my keys, or the battery in the remote goes flat, my system is as follows.

Get the spare key from under the car, get into the rear boot. Inside the boot I have a spre remote for the alarm to gain entry, and a spare key for the steering wheel lock.

Just make sure the battery is replaced every now and then! It would be so frustrating to find the spare remote wasnt working. I was stuck for a while in Chadstone late one night after a movie when my immobiliser battery died... I pulled the battery out and twisted it around and luckily it somehow had enough power to work so I could start the car.

Originally posted by Warpspeed

Hide a spare key ...  behind the numberplate or something.  

I did that once. One problem - the screwdriver to undo the number plate was in the boot - which required the key behind number plate to open it!!!!!

With regard to the alams and immobilisers - most immobilisers simply intercept the wire to the starter motor, they don't actually disable the car (all the lights on the panel light up, just the starter won't work. Solution (for manuals only) - kick start down a hill!!!! And the alarm should have some means to disable it without the module.

Bolting the key behind the numberplate was used as an example to get people thinking, but I have actually done this myself though.

If you use a stainless steel screw and a brass nut, with a shakeprook star washer, it will not vibrate loose. It will not rust up either. By twisting the key, the nut can be loosened quite easily. Try it and see ! Or maybe a brass wing nut.

Another way is to attatch a long piece of stiff wire to the key and poke the key down inside a chasis rail, gearbox crossmember, behind the front grille, inside a hollow towbar, or something. If you can feel the end of the wire with your fingers, then pull the whole lot out.

Use your imagination. Suerly you can find a place that does not require a full 250 piece toolset on a trolly to get at the key. Jeeeeez

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...