Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i remember the previous owner of my stagea told me the rear had stock suspension, now i just thought he had no idea seeming how low the rear was.

The rear has felt really "saggy" lately so last ngiht i thought i would have a look.

So it seems yeas, i had stock rear suspension, but it is totally stuffed, im able to push the suspension down with my hands =(

Seeming i didnt wanna drive it with such bad suspension i have now put good stock suspension in the rear, and it looks terrible lol.

So now to figure out what i want to do, i dont wanna guy new coil over for the rear as i have a lot of other stuff i have to pay for at the moment,

dont know weather to leave it like this, or try and find some rear suspension thats lowered and good condion????

Before and after pics attached

Kris

post-107907-0-95635100-1409790348_thumb.jpg

post-107907-0-10165200-1409790416_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448248-such-a-sad-night-last-night/
Share on other sites

also whats in the front, make sure it matches. are they just lowered springs alround with shot rear shocks? if so just put new shocks in. dunno why you would run coilovers in the rear and not the front?

It's funny that since you sold me your rear coilovers a mate of yours and now you could have used them! Took a little work to free up the lock nuts but they work all good!

Unlucky....

It's funny that since you sold me your rear coilovers a mate of yours and now you could have used them! Took a little work to free up the lock nuts but they work all good!

Unlucky....

seems like thread could get interesting.

back in for story time.

this is a little odd. why ever run coilovers on the front and not the rear? just take the coilovers out, use stock stuff which someone is surely selling cheap (sold mine sorry) and buy a propper set of matching coilovers when the money is available.

Yeha i never thought i would need them. my own fault lol

Nah no real story.

He sold me coilovers cheap as. I put them on my car. Had to unstuck the lock nuts, easily done.


They work fine.

this is a little odd. why ever run coilovers on the front and not the rear? just take the coilovers out, use stock stuff which someone is surely selling cheap (sold mine sorry) and buy a propper set of matching coilovers when the money is available.

Dunno, like i said it was done by previous owner, seen it done on a lot of cars,

anyway, yeah i will look for a complete set once i have the cash

yeah well the wife said she will get me coil overs for my bday at the end of november, so just gonna puit stock suspension in the dront, just gotta find some as i can seen to find much for sale at the moment

Kris

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...