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Almost Ready To Re Assemble Rb26. Need Some Advice

Blackkers

By Blackkers,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
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The collar was warmed and pressed on. I believe this is the best way to do it

instructions from Kiwi:

1. Our collars have precision ground internal bores which make it easy to gain the required .002 interference fit to shaft.

Crankshaft must be machined by an engine shop/ crankshaft grinder. Must be ground with a finish similar to a crank journal.

Most crankshaft grinder operators are familiar with the precise measuring to gain the .002” interference.

The collar should never be fitted relying on the grub screws to hold it, with the correct .002 thou press on/ interference fit the collar will have sufficient hold to the crank. The grub screws are only to assure it not turning in event of pump lockup etc.

2. Gently warm collar to a light straw color and with a suitable mandrel knock the collar on very smartly.

NOTE, the heat soak from the collar will grab it very quickly so it must be a very fast knock on technique to assure it fitting home easily.

3. Fit grub screws at journal end of collars at 180 deg away from each other, to ensure screws do not hit the crank bolt when doing up bolt.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

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I picked up the block today. The machinist said it definitely needed a skim, a stone didn't do the job properly. So thank you for making me do that. It came out mint!

now it's cleaning time before I can check the ring gaps then install the crank, rods and pistons and measure deck height.

One quick question: What are those dowel things that sit in the deck? are they necessary and what are they for?

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Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Oh yeah I just realised the dowels sit around the threads where the head bolts down. Because I'm using studs I won't need any help to align the head surely

You definitely still need to use the dowels. The clearance on the hole in the head to the studs is heaps compared to the dowels

USE THE DOWELS!

  • Like 1
XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

I'm going to add to this thread and probably get flamed for this but meh fark it

The engine in my 32 is a bits from two engines :)

Engine 1 spun big end, engine 2 blown ringlands, I took the crank and main bearings out of engine two with one rod and piston with the same piston number as the spun bearing piston in engine 1, I replaced only big ends with ACLs and rings with genuine Nissan and a 1.1mm Cosworth HG

I honed block with the stone type and wiped it down with wet toilet paper :yes: measured and adjusted rings, razored the block and head and reassembled

That engine has been in car since 2007 making 293rwkw and has run 11.1, was only suppose to be in there till I built a proper forged motor for it then bought the 34 and has never been changed and I cain the absolute shit out of that motor and it just won't break :(

Moral of this story I'm trying to get across is everything doesn't have to be 100000% perfect for an engine to work or last you just have to make sure you do all the bolts and nuts up properly and clean surfaces enough so they are smooth without anything left from old gaskets or seals :thumbsup:

Oh and a good tuner doesn't hurt :D

  • Like 2
Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
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Thanks for the advice mate, good to hear your backyard engine is still alive after 7 years of abuse! It's easy to be pedantic but I'm just making sure I haven't missed anything major.

After cleaning the crank with kerosene and compressed air I plastigauged the main bearings and they all came up fine. Then installed the crank for hopefully the final time.

I just borrowed a ring compressor so I can throw the pistons in this afternoon

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