R32 Skyline, Electric Fan Install Power Issues...

[Kanaric]

Was having issues finding a fan clutch and other cooling parts easily in the US and building a electric fan system was cheaper for me so I had someone build a setup for me. Now i'm having power issues.

It's a dual fan setup, if I turn on the AC one of the two fans turn on the other turns out at temperature. If the temperature activated fan turns on it will drive fine for a while, probably because it cools then shuts off, however if the AC fan is on after about a minute the car will start dying, electrics will start failing, etc. As if I lost power.

Do I need to get a more powerful battery or alternator or anything? This is for a GTS-T.

Once the car starts dying like this I can turn it on just fine, unless the fan comes on as the car turns on then I only have a few seconds of drivability.

This car has kind of a smaller battery with small terminals i've not seen in any car in the united states.

The guy who I had build this fan system tried telling me my alternator was going bad. I know how to test that, i've even had taken it to a autozone and had them check it. It's fine. I'll probably have to get back to him on this but if he's telling me that I think I will trust what you guys will have to tell me more.

Thanks for any info you can provide. I don't know anything when it comes to power in a car so any help provided I would be grateful for.

Edited September 6, 2014 by Kanaric

[MrStabby]

What voltage do you see across the battery terminals when the fans are on? What about then the fans and headlights are on? If its less than 12.6 volts, then the battery is getting drained so you either need to make more electric power (more powerful alternator), or use less power (smaller/weaker fan(s).

[Kanaric]

What voltage do you see across the battery terminals when the fans are on? What about then the fans and headlights are on? If its less than 12.6 volts, then the battery is getting drained so you either need to make more electric power (more powerful alternator), or use less power (smaller/weaker fan(s).

Turned on AC voltage dipped to 12.3-12.5, then back up to 13.5 and was fine.

Then I turned on the lights+high beams. Hicas lights continually on, 12.3-12.5 again.

When the AC was on and I turned on the lights they wouldn't be at full brightness. I turned the AC off turned lights off/on then they would go to full brightness when they were like that with the AC on the problem was like above.

Turned on rear defroster with all this car sounded like it was on the verge of dying.

After doing that the battery tested, with car off, at 12.2 volts and car wouldn't start again until the 4th try.

Edited September 6, 2014 by Kanaric

[Kanaric]

After doing that car is acting really weird now. At idle any revving would immediately make hicas flicker only to go away above 1000rpm. So basically it would flicker as soon as I touched the throttle.

This time turning on the lights the drivers side headlight came on, thought this whole time it was dead. Then the hicas light turned solid after revving it for like the 6th time until above 1000 rpm instead of flickering that the drivers side light went off.

Each time I turn the headlights with the AC on they come on different. Either dim, passenger side working only or all working.

Got both fans to be on and was getting 12.6, lights on with that put the car well below normal idle and at 12.2 while the car was still on which is what the battery read when the car was off.

Edited September 6, 2014 by Kanaric

[MrStabby]

FWIW on R32 GTR the spec is: Alternator - 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm

I'd say your alternator doesnt have enough spare capacity to run those fans.

[Kanaric]

FWIW on R32 GTR the spec is: Alternator - 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm

I'd say your alternator doesnt have enough spare capacity to run those fans.

Awesome, thanks for confirming.

[Kanaric]

So I replaced with a new RB25 alternator. Car seemed to be better then before i turned on the AC and that was even worse. The car went down to like 400 rpm idle obviously then sounding like it was continuously on the verge of dying. Hit the throttle and it felt a bit sluggish but would work.

What could possibly cause turning on the AC to kill the idle like this?

[scotty nm35]

I would say the idle air control valve is gummed up, pretty common. Have a search for cleaning IAC valve.

[Kanaric]

I would say the idle air control valve is gummed up, pretty common. Have a search for cleaning IAC valve.

Awesome, thanks. I'll give that a try.

[Kanaric]

Disappointing discovery today. Thoroughly stress tested the car today with AC off, same issues as before. Car died right by my house going 30 mph as I was braking for a stop sign.

Got home and the cooling fan was running, turned on lights/brights 12.1 volts.

Going to contact the people at:
http://www.paladinlasvegas.com/
And ask they either fix it or put the OEM setup back on.

[NYTSKY]

You need an alternator with a higher output. I have a similar issue, 3 fuel pumps, thermo etc etc

[Kanaric]

You need an alternator with a higher output. I have a similar issue, 3 fuel pumps, thermo etc etc

I would think this, but don't people have aftermarket audio setups that draw way more power than just two fans? That's all I put on this car was these two fans. I would think that factory options in the R33 could of drawn more power. Keep in mind I have a R33 90 amp alternator now. That is what was on the GTR. They had a computer for the AWD system, probably significantly better audio setup, cruise control, fog lights, ABS, etc. I don't see how these fans would draw more power than all of that combined.

Edited September 11, 2014 by Kanaric