Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25De How Fast/economical


Recommended Posts

Just wondering how economical the Rb25de is? Considering buying a R34 GT not so fussy on how fast it is. Just wanna know if the engine is quite reliable compared to it's turbo counterpart. Also how big is the fuel tank on the GT

Sorry i always get loose information from here and there just wanna get facts from proper Skyline owners

Also are the only real mods on the rb25de performance wise just like improving air intake n like poppin on a pod filter?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB25DE's aren't that economical for the power they put out- by todays standards. They are also fairly revvy for a 6 cylinder which means you will, and it will use more juice. Normal city driving will see 10-12L per 100km.

Pod filters will only make you use more fuel as they are basically a hot air intake that doesn't enable any easier breathing of the motor.

Leave on stock airbox for best economy and power.

They are reliable motors but are getting older now and have probably had km wound off them in the import process.

Don't do the GT+T thing or putting in a GT-T motor into the GT chassis. It is a silly waste of time and money vs selling it and just buying a turbo when the time comes.

Edited by jjman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ahh, now i shall find a nice GT and purchase it and finally stop fkn around and looking at cars....

I'll hope to maintain the engine squeeky clean and oil that baby up as soon as it is needed.

let the OCD cleanliness and maintenance begin!

now just to find a good GT for around 10k

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or a gt-4. Very much worth dropping an rb26 into them :D

Yes! I reckon even a Rb25DET would do well in a GT-4 :D As i recall, nissan didnt want to turbo charge the GT-4 as its performance might be too close to the more expensive GTR. Think i read it on wiki :/

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is a dead f**king short of B+ to ground. Scary.
    • 10-15 years ago, the answer would always be buy a good import motor and so many machine shops make.a hash of an engine rebuild, or they think they are some sort of RB magicians and want 40k.      Now as others have stated, you are buying a VERY old used motor. So rebuild is the correct answer.  Just finding a machine shop that will both do a good job and charge you a regular price is now your challenge. 
    • SOLVED   simple solution. After wrecking by brain, i ended up jist giggling everything i could. At one point last week I noticed that the left side signals shut off for a split second. I wasn't sure what triggered it. I spent time cleaning up wiring, re-wrapping and adding DT connectors to my IC7 stuff. I bought a new hazard and stalk hoping that would work. The stalk did fix some function issue but not the steady on. Hazard didn't fix it. I started just tracing everything. Once I got to the engine bay I notice my engine harness was droopy. I started moving it and the signals flickered. Come to find out that the starter + turned off sigmals when it grounded out on a bolt I have a Wiring Specialties pro harness so I'm not sure if this is specific to it. So it should work proper once I hook everything up   20240511_190033.mp4
    • Both of those things are on my to do but not quite in a position to do that just yet until I can at least get it running back to stock. Going to work on getting the exhaust manifold gasket and studs replaced first, an obvious need it now. Then I'll try out the new maf and see hownthat does. After that I'm thinking cas if I'm still having the same issues. Still need to run the fuel out and refuel I'll change the fuel filter tomorrow along with cleaning the iacv with carb cleaner. If all else fails I'm going to get a serial port and see if I can get some sort of data on what the ecu is seeing when the issue is happening but really hoping one of the methods above work out first. After I get a good base I'm going link but have to save for that so it'll be a while for that based on my tuners suggestions. Definitely need the exhaust leak fixed first though car has always fallen flat after about 4-4500 rpm since I've had it and suspecting that's the issue. Then I can move forward with the rest. 
×
×
  • Create New...