Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It's a n/a rb30 series 2 block and it's an RB30DET now. I bought a half done motor and pretty much have pulled everything apart over months and rebuilding it. I figured I'd bugger off the bulky heat transfer and add an oil cooler and remote mount. This was the first time I removed it.

Someone added the heat transfer block then. I'm pretty sure the thing they destroyed in the process(your photo) is the oil filter bypass valve (used when the filter is blocked to bypass it)

I would pay carefully attention and see if you need to block it up or else you might be bypassing the oil filter now.

Fairly certain my old 30 blocks had this filter by-pass valve.

It's a steel ball and spring style which when operating, simply by-passes the filter.

Yours would be doing this all the time.

I think I can see the remains of the spring in one of the photos, also not good.

Definitely needs attention.

If you're doing a rebuild, you need to remove all gallery plugs, strip/clean/flush anything to do with oil supply.

Don't trust any work done by a previous owner, as this clearly shows.

It might not be all doom and gloom though. I think if you look into it the heat exchanger has the bypass valve in it, which is perhaps why the original owner hacked it out of the block.

You "might" be able to just put the heat exchanger back on, but the piece of spring sitting there is concerning and will need to be dealt with. It's also an indication of the previous owners workmanship which is a shame.

The previous owner was a bell end. I bought the rb 25/30 all excited then I got home after the 2 hour drive and found rust and leaves all through it. I have removed the head and rebuilt based on these shonky findings.

I think I might try tapping a thread through the shit and screwing a bolt in there. I won't run the relief valve.

Edited by negativecamber

Fair enough. There's no real need to actually run the valve..its only there incase the filter gets so blocked it can't flow oil, which I'm sure you would never let it get that bad before servicing the car.

The only thing is to make sure you get rid of all of the swarf caused by tapping it.

I'll vacuum the hell out of it and I currently have the sump off so I'll make sure no dwarf gets anywhere. I had a similar experience with installing a rear head drain the other week.

It's a track only drift car so it will have regular fluid/filter changes.

Thanks for your help guys.

I've been changing oil filters for at least 50 years and I've never come across a spin-on that doesn't incorporate a by-pass valve.

Owners should understand the by-pass will open when the filter medium becomes blocked and also on cold start when oil is at its max viscosity.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...