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What Is This? (Oil Block)

negativecamber

By negativecamber,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
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It's a n/a rb30 series 2 block and it's an RB30DET now. I bought a half done motor and pretty much have pulled everything apart over months and rebuilding it. I figured I'd bugger off the bulky heat transfer and add an oil cooler and remote mount. This was the first time I removed it.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Someone added the heat transfer block then. I'm pretty sure the thing they destroyed in the process(your photo) is the oil filter bypass valve (used when the filter is blocked to bypass it)

I would pay carefully attention and see if you need to block it up or else you might be bypassing the oil filter now.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

Fairly certain my old 30 blocks had this filter by-pass valve.

It's a steel ball and spring style which when operating, simply by-passes the filter.

Yours would be doing this all the time.

I think I can see the remains of the spring in one of the photos, also not good.

Definitely needs attention.

If you're doing a rebuild, you need to remove all gallery plugs, strip/clean/flush anything to do with oil supply.

Don't trust any work done by a previous owner, as this clearly shows.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

It might not be all doom and gloom though. I think if you look into it the heat exchanger has the bypass valve in it, which is perhaps why the original owner hacked it out of the block.

You "might" be able to just put the heat exchanger back on, but the piece of spring sitting there is concerning and will need to be dealt with. It's also an indication of the previous owners workmanship which is a shame.

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

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Posted (edited)

The previous owner was a bell end. I bought the rb 25/30 all excited then I got home after the 2 hour drive and found rust and leaves all through it. I have removed the head and rebuilt based on these shonky findings.

I think I might try tapping a thread through the shit and screwing a bolt in there. I won't run the relief valve.

Edited by negativecamber
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Fair enough. There's no real need to actually run the valve..its only there incase the filter gets so blocked it can't flow oil, which I'm sure you would never let it get that bad before servicing the car.

The only thing is to make sure you get rid of all of the swarf caused by tapping it.

negativecamber Collaborator

negativecamber

Posted
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Posted

I'll vacuum the hell out of it and I currently have the sump off so I'll make sure no dwarf gets anywhere. I had a similar experience with installing a rear head drain the other week.

It's a track only drift car so it will have regular fluid/filter changes.

Thanks for your help guys.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

I've been changing oil filters for at least 50 years and I've never come across a spin-on that doesn't incorporate a by-pass valve.

Owners should understand the by-pass will open when the filter medium becomes blocked and also on cold start when oil is at its max viscosity.

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