Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Its same as all the other entry budget coilovers like BC ,HSD etc. will do the job. But if your looking for that level of coilover you might aswell buy BC since its local and easy to get warranty support etc. If you want to go a more serious coilover the next level something like shockworks which are leagues above all those entry spec ones you will buy.

I

Nah I haven't checked

Im after some quality set, I'm willing to stretch my budget from $1000 to $2000 max do you think shockworks would be best for my budget?

In that case yes definately I would highly recomend shockworks they are 1800. I am using them on my r33 drift car and I have had cusco then bc and the shockworks are in a different league they really are that good. The amount of feedback you feel from your suspension as you drive is what really hit me first time driving with them. Being local aswell they are always happy to give advise on setup, make custom changes for your request and rebuilds are really cheap. For the price you pay for them you wont find anything come near it at a similar price. If you are in melbourne you can go to them and they will take you for a drive through the twisties in there r34 test car which is stock with just the coilovers and you will definately be impressed.

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

powered my MAX are they overpriced or what?

How can something that's only ~$1000 be overpriced? You seriously expect to be able to buy a full set of springs, dampers, upper and lower mounting hardware for much less?

I mean sure, all these cheap coilover kits are nasty, so from that point of view you're buying a polished turd, which by definition means it's overpriced. But expecting to get it for $800, or $750? A single good quality damper costs nearly that much on its own.

No I'm not talking about overpriced coilovers for 1000? Like I said I'm willing to pay up to $2000 for a set. I'm talking about their arms and knuckles by MAX, driftworks and all the big named company are they as good as their prices just wondering if you guys used them?

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

Yeah mate all the guys that have made the switch to shockworks have not looked back everyone has been impressed. On my setup adj arms I'm using driftworks for camber traction castor arms and knuckles are JDI (place in melb) alot of victorian drift scene guys use them for S/R chassis. Ive had the drifworks arms for 3 years now and still fine no problems, gktech arms from what I have seen tend to be alright it was more the alloy knuckles which had some problems.

Thanks a lot for the tips..!! I'm running jdi knuckles on mine as well great stuff really happy with what they did ton mine. Do you know who's the distributor for driftworks in Australia apart from shop cartel?

I only know of cartel in Aus but I get mine direct from driftworks it works out cheaper then cartel and usually prob quicker since they ship with fedex i have it in a 3or4 days from ordering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...