Jump to content
SAU Community

Powered By Max Coilovers

Santana
 Share

Recommended Posts

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Its same as all the other entry budget coilovers like BC ,HSD etc. will do the job. But if your looking for that level of coilover you might aswell buy BC since its local and easy to get warranty support etc. If you want to go a more serious coilover the next level something like shockworks which are leagues above all those entry spec ones you will buy.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

I

Nah I haven't checked

Im after some quality set, I'm willing to stretch my budget from $1000 to $2000 max do you think shockworks would be best for my budget?

In that case yes definately I would highly recomend shockworks they are 1800. I am using them on my r33 drift car and I have had cusco then bc and the shockworks are in a different league they really are that good. The amount of feedback you feel from your suspension as you drive is what really hit me first time driving with them. Being local aswell they are always happy to give advise on setup, make custom changes for your request and rebuilds are really cheap. For the price you pay for them you wont find anything come near it at a similar price. If you are in melbourne you can go to them and they will take you for a drive through the twisties in there r34 test car which is stock with just the coilovers and you will definately be impressed.

Santana Rookie

Santana

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

powered my MAX are they overpriced or what?

How can something that's only ~$1000 be overpriced? You seriously expect to be able to buy a full set of springs, dampers, upper and lower mounting hardware for much less?

I mean sure, all these cheap coilover kits are nasty, so from that point of view you're buying a polished turd, which by definition means it's overpriced. But expecting to get it for $800, or $750? A single good quality damper costs nearly that much on its own.

Santana Rookie

Santana

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No I'm not talking about overpriced coilovers for 1000? Like I said I'm willing to pay up to $2000 for a set. I'm talking about their arms and knuckles by MAX, driftworks and all the big named company are they as good as their prices just wondering if you guys used them?

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Someone told me they're really good as well and coming from someone like yourself that used them I think you just convinced me lol thanks a lot I'll have a look at them. I have a 32 drift car and slowly building it so I can compete in SA next season, if you don't mind me asking what arms setup and knuckle you got in your? I was thinking going Gktech but heard good and bad about and driftworks, powered my MAX are they overpriced or what? What do guys on here run on there R chassis?

Yeah mate all the guys that have made the switch to shockworks have not looked back everyone has been impressed. On my setup adj arms I'm using driftworks for camber traction castor arms and knuckles are JDI (place in melb) alot of victorian drift scene guys use them for S/R chassis. Ive had the drifworks arms for 3 years now and still fine no problems, gktech arms from what I have seen tend to be alright it was more the alloy knuckles which had some problems.

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Thanks a lot for the tips..!! I'm running jdi knuckles on mine as well great stuff really happy with what they did ton mine. Do you know who's the distributor for driftworks in Australia apart from shop cartel?

I only know of cartel in Aus but I get mine direct from driftworks it works out cheaper then cartel and usually prob quicker since they ship with fedex i have it in a 3or4 days from ordering.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...