Jump to content
SAU Community

Pull Type Clutch Won't Disengage

iruvyouskyrine
 Share

Recommended Posts

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Hey all.

R34 GT-T gearbox with NPC carbotic single plate clutch. Was installed and running fine but engine died so it come out and is going on to the new engine. It looked in perfect condition when it came out.

So put it back in and now it will not disengage at all. Have bled/adjusted the pedal about 26 times now so I can confirm that it's not the issue. Pedal feel is excellent and I will attatch a video of clutch fork movement. Looking inside the box you can clearly see the release bearing pulling back the fingers of the pressure plate what looks like more than enough distance to disengage it.

As far as I am aware the only step you can gosh darn up in the install is putting the clutch itself in backwards? I didn't think it was possible but that's about the only thing I can think of.

Will having it in backwards make the clutch unable to be disengaged?

Any advice/help is appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449093-pull-type-clutch-wont-disengage/
Share on other sites
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Should also say that it was working perfectly with the R32 clutch master previously but won't disengage with the R33 master I now use. But by the look of these videos I'm 99% sure it's not master cylinder issue.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay so it's something internal. Moved the clutch fork until it hit the front of the hole cut out in the bell housing aka absolute full clutch fork travel. Still will not disengage the clutch.

What could go wrong with the pressure plate/clutch plate to cause it to still be engaged even though the release bearing is pulling on the diaphragm?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nothing. Except for maybe it being in backwards.

Either way you aren't going to be able to fox it from the outside. Face the facts and whip the box out.

Edited by Ben C34
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know that Benny boy. Just asking if there is any known issues before I beak it open, find everything looks fine and put it all back together and have it not work.

I hope it is something as simple as clutch plate backwards but when I touch stuff it never is. Just got me stumped that it won't disengage even though the release carrier is doing it's job.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Box out.

Clutch looks good (definitely on the correct way, like I said, impossible to put single plate on backwards) pressure plate looks good, flywheel good, carrier bearing good.

Box in.

Exactly the same problem.

gosh darn.

Broken box?

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay.

Clutch master is actuating the slave about an inch and has excellent pedal feel the entire way to the floor, so I would say that is fine.

Clutch slave has a decent amount of throw and no leaks etc, so I think that's fine.

Clutch fork is all good, not bent/cracked etc and the pivot point is all good.

Carrier bearing looked fine no abnormal marks etc.

Clutch disc itself looked fine.

Pressure plate looked fine although I wasn't sure exactly what I was looking for, just looking for general abnormalities. Also the carrier bearing is pulling on the pressure plate diaphragm and is pulling it out as it should.

So everything appears to be in a working condition.

When the car is on jackstands it can be started in any gear and the wheels turn freely and change speed with acceleration. This would indicate the part of the gearbox is fine Imagine (not sure what part as I'm no specialist). I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues.

When it was driving I was unable to get it out of first though, I was applying a decent amount of pressure on the shifter but it just didn't want to come out of first.

So yeah I have been thinking about it for the last 4 days and have not come up with a single idea that hasn't had a logical conclusion as to why it can't be that part that isn't functioning correctly.

Cash reward offered to the first person that tells me what the issue to my problem is.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

"I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues." how did you do that with an engaged clutch?

Or is your problem actually "gearbox will not shift out of first" rather than "clutch will not disengage" ?

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Spoke to Doug at NPC, the maker of my clutch. After I gave him all the information from the testing I have done he said the only thing it could be is a bent clutch plate. Da fark. How did that happen? Anyway.

He was kind enough to send me another one free of charge.

Put new clutch plate it and no change. Feels exactly the same as before. Can anyone recommend a gearbox place in Newcastle? I would rather slam my dick in a door for the next 48 hours than try and fix this piece of shit.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...