Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Oil Catcher Plumbed Wrong? Not Catching Oil

KrazyTurk

By KrazyTurk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
Posted

iv had cases of oil leaks before but asumed it was leaking from the oil catcher though i did get that replaced

now i noticed theres still leaks but its not coming from the catcher but from some sort of filter under the pod i think its a breather ?

iv attached a picture of how my catchcan settup is and where the leaking is from (brown shading represents oil leaks)

http://i.imgur.com/P3jxTH7.png

the catchcan itself seems literally empty

my question is why isnt the catchcan catching the oil? but passing down through the breather

R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

The oil catch can doesn't catch the oil because it doesn't see any blow-by gases through it.

The catch can shall be between the rocker cover and the breather/intake pipe.

As is your catch can is totally useless.

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ah i see this whole thing is plumbed incorrectly then and despite the several mechanics i went to about it didnt mention anything

even though the breather is before the catchcan wouldn't the can at least catch something other side of rocker cover?

i have a feeling the can might be installed incorrectly by the mechanic too lol

just figured that the breather/filter i was confused about was there to vent gases/oil to atmosphere instead of the intake

Edited by KrazyTurk
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Yep that's a fairly retarded way to plumb in the catch can. It would only catch what's coming out of the inlet cam cover

How much is coming out anyway? A healthy engine none should come out.

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That means two things

1 your engine is tired.

2 your catch can sucks. It should be baffled.

Actually it doesn't necessarily mean 2 until such time as he sets the plumbing up properly and then oil still comes out the vent.

OP......you need the catch can to be in the path between the engine and the vent. Merge the two hoses from the cam covers together and hook them to one connection on the catch can. Connect the vent to the other port on the catch can. Run it and report back. If the can works, then there will be oil in it. If the can doesn't work (per Ben's suggestion above) then there will be oil in it and oil outside it!

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

worth noting that the filter/breather is a bad idea. Hook it up to the turbo intake.

1. It's illegal

2. the filter material will become soaked in oil and drip. also it's a fire hazard

3. Supposedly exposing the crank case to vacuum from the turbo will help keep the rings on their seats with a worn engine. I don't know how true this is.

4. Also if you've got blowby, and I assume you do. then boost is escaping from the combustion chamber into the crankcase where it is venting to atmosphere. typically you want this to recirculate to the turbo's inlet. I'm not sure if this would affect AFR's though

Anyway, hook up the catch can between the rocker covers and the compressor inlet. That should allow you to tick all the boxes of legality while keeping oil out of your intake

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

so i hooked everything up correctly and now noticed smoke coming out from exhaust pipe?

Ok that indicates that oil fumes are getting though the catch can so you need to baffle the catch can and/or put an air/oil seperator (could be another baffled catch can) into the line from the catch can to the turbo intake. If there is masses of oil coming out at WOT refer to the oil control thread for more answers.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

When you say hooked it properly most people would take that as you hooked it up the proper way, with the catch can venting back to the inlet.

Are you sure it's hooked up properly at the moment?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That's not hooked up properly. That filter on the far right.....shouldn't be there. That hose should be hooked up to the turbo inlet pipe, so that the air that flows through the catch can into the engine has been through the AFM. We explained all that already.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

It's a shame even after being told how to do it you still do it wrong, and are adamant that it's correct.

It's wrong.

Simple as that. If you don't understand that's cool, get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • The Bogan
      SAU NSW - R U OK? Southern Highlands Cruise

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...