Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTSt, to transplant AWD gear or not?

Pekatu
 Share

Recommended Posts

Pekatu Community Regular

Pekatu

Posted
Posted

Just been wondering (ever since i went for a spin in a mates RS liberty) if it would be worth transplanting the GTS4 driveline into my GTST.

I have a few q's tho, how much better do the all wheel drives handle, and if they handle well enough to justify the expence, and does anyone know what the price of a conversion would be?

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

So what do you call handling? The added weight better be worth it.... i have a pig headed notion that 4wd may help grip, but doesnt mean a better handling/feeling car.

Before considering the change, id ve interested to hear if your car has std susp, and the Liberty has modified susp.... DISCLAIMER : In no way is my little theory fact, just a way of thinking which to date hasnt been proved wrong by any of my (limited) experiences.

Pekatu Community Regular

Pekatu

Posted
  • Author
Posted
So what do you call handling? The added weight better be worth it.... i have a pig headed notion that 4wd may help grip, but doesnt mean a better handling/feeling car.  

Before considering the change, id ve interested to hear if your car has std susp, and the Liberty has modified susp.... DISCLAIMER : In no way is my little theory fact, just a way of thinking which to date hasnt been proved wrong by any of my (limited) experiences.

nah, mine isn't std suspension, not sure of brand but it has harder shockers and springs, and the liberty did have standard suspension.

I will elloborate on what i was trying to say; Around tight corners at lowish speeds 50-70 kph, the LIB can just floor it and get minimal wheel spin and still retain huge amounts of grip to the road, read; quicker acceleration and cornering in general.

where as as you know with rear wheel drives, throttle control and balance is the key to a fast corner else you would end up backwards off the road.

How ever in saying that at higher speeds above 80kph the line handles 100% better (maybe the hicas, maybe just the design of the car)

so i think i will spend some dollars on some suspension tuning strut braces a larger rear sway bar and maybe some coilovers (if finances permit)

can anyone suggest a good setup for the 32? also an approximate price would be great!

burko1 Veteran

burko1

Posted
Posted
Just been wondering (ever since i went for a spin in a mates RS liberty) if it would be worth transplanting the GTS4 driveline into my GTST.

I have a few q's tho, how much better do the all wheel drives handle, and if they handle well enough to justify the expence, and does anyone know what the price of a conversion would be?

it can be done i have done it myself, with the help of my mate the panel beater.

yeah it costs but if you look around and do the hard work your self your laughing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...