Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone know the vaule resistor that the stock gtst cluster uses to convert the speedo signal going to the ecu? Ive binned the cluster and just want to keep running the speedo signal direct to the ecu and get the reading off the power fc but now it is reading to high as there is a resistor used in the cluster to correct.

Can you play with the speedo signal with your ECU?

Ill see if I can find anything in the wiring diagram but dont recall any in the cluster

Dont think theres anytging ecu side muck around with it. On the wiring diagram shows ecu output to a resistor then to speed sensor now since originally the ecu gets the signal from cluster im assuming the resistor for correctiin would be there.

Might have to much around with a potentimeter see if i cand find the value.

Edited by boostn0199

I can't find a resistor in my wiring diagram. Can I ask which diagram you are using?

I wasnt sure if you had a standard ECU or not. The Link ECU's allow you to modify the speed sensor input frequency to road speed, so if your speed is a little out on the ECU, you can adjust it to give true road speed

I

I can't find a resistor in my wiring diagram. Can I ask which diagram you are using?

I wasnt sure if you had a standard ECU or not. The Link ECU's allow you to modify the speed sensor input frequency to road speed, so if your speed is a little out on the ECU, you can adjust it to give true road speed

I got power fc. This is the diagram ive seen it on, which one are you using?

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/post-2917-1129784245.jpg

Ignore the resistor. It's just showing the sensor itself and how it is drawn. Bit decieving in that diagram, the one I have shows the speed sensor (as pictured, then wiring which goes through a plug on the way to the cluster

SpeedSensor_zpsdcee4377.jpg

The cluster must alter the signal somehow because its reading 4times the speed wired directly to sensor now or either the ecu just takes the reading off the the std speedo gauge itself.

Have mucked around with resistors today added 1k but did not change anything.

Odd the diagram shows nothing in the line between the sensor and the cluster. There is a VSS module inside the cluster that might alter the signal out

If you dont want the cluster, maybe you could pull it apart and have a look whats inside, then either add the same thing to the circuit or pull the VSS module out of the cluster and run it inline.

I wouldnt think it would be a resistor it needs in the circuit because as far as I know the ECU wants to see frequency, so pulses/second etc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
×
×
  • Create New...