Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, before you flame the absolute shit out of me, I bought an rb20det really cheap and its much easier to find an r33 shell for a better price than an r32. i would go r32 if i could afford it.

anyway, as the title states im putting an rb20det into an r33, this includes the rb20 box aswell, besides the loom will i need to change anything else? i read on here that if you put an rb25 and box into an r32 you need to shorten the tailshaft, would this be the opposite with an r33? thanks in advance for any help, please don't bother flaming i don't really care that you don't agree with what im doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449479-rb20det-into-r33/
Share on other sites

I won't flame you. I would just like to be the first to point out how retarded that is.

It won't be legal either.

Haha yeah good one post an opinion after i just said i don't care about them, yeah you're so funny and your epenis is huge, good job champ keep up the funny work!! I don't care that it's illegal, i can get roadworthies and without a coilpack cover most cops couldn't tell the difference anyway.

You didn't say you didn't care about opinions. You didn't want to be flamed because you know it's a retarded idea.

I'm just happy to point out the obvious.

Aside from the legalities, putting in an older smaller engine is retarded. Does that help?

Otherwise do it. Report back.

You didn't say you didn't care about opinions. You didn't want to be flamed because you know it's a retarded idea.

I'm just happy to point out the obvious.

Aside from the legalities, putting in an older smaller engine is retarded. Does that help?

Otherwise do it. Report back.

"I don't care if you don't agree with what im doing" do you understand or do you need it explained a little better?

I'm pretty well aware that there are better options, these options also cost much more. It's clearly nothing special, im not going to race every other skyline and wonder why i loose, i want something thats a bit of cheap fun. and doing this is by far the cheapest option, rb20s still go hard, i also have access to several turbo upgrades which would make up for the engine size. It's cool that you think its retarded, i don't care please stop commenting on this thread, i asked for help on what i need to modify, not your opinion.

K. Good luck man. I assume you are using the inferior rb20 box as well? As using the stronger r33 box would actually fit (it comes in the car) and be stronger.

Sounds rad. I've changed my mind. Now you've mentioned a different turbo a laggy rb20 in a boat would rule.

And Its not my opinion. It's fact. I didn't dream it up.

If i read someones post and it said "before you flame the absolute shit out of me" I would guess that said person already knows what their doing isn't the way everyone else is going. Like i already f**king know rb25s are better, i know 25 boxes are stronger, for the 3rd time I'm doing this because its cheap, if you don't like it dont reply to the thread holy f**k. is it really that hard?

No engine transplant is cheap.

Do it properly or don't do it at all. New hoses, new timing belt, new water pump, new oil seals (especially oil seals on an old drippy RB20!!!). New thermostat, etc etc. Then the wiring changes. Then the tailshaft modifications. Working out whether to use the new or old (or the opposite way around for you) power steering pump, air-con compressor, alternator (all of which have different connections to teh car between R32 and R33). Then finding the right transmission mount. Then the problem of the speedo drive.

The core cost of the engine is not as significant as you'd think.

I did a Neo transplant into R32. I did everything properly. It cost several times the cost of the engine.

But if you want to set sail in the failboat, go right ahead. The last time I saw anyone put an RB20DET into an R33 was an R33 GTS (no T) and it was LAST CENTURY....when it almost made sense.

No engine transplant is cheap.

Do it properly or don't do it at all. New hoses, new timing belt, new water pump, new oil seals (especially oil seals on an old drippy RB20!!!). New thermostat, etc etc. Then the wiring changes. Then the tailshaft modifications. Working out whether to use the new or old (or the opposite way around for you) power steering pump, air-con compressor, alternator (all of which have different connections to teh car between R32 and R33). Then finding the right transmission mount. Then the problem of the speedo drive.

The core cost of the engine is not as significant as you'd think.

I did a Neo transplant into R32. I did everything properly. It cost several times the cost of the engine.

But if you want to set sail in the failboat, go right ahead. The last time I saw anyone put an RB20DET into an R33 was an R33 GTS (no T) and it was LAST CENTURY....when it almost made sense.

Thanks for the reply, although cost of doing that stuff to someone like you may be major for me it is not, Im a metal fabricator by trade and have heaps of experience in the auto electrics field. The rb came with a new timing belt, starter, hoses and altenator. Speedo will be an easy fix. I can do all the mounts and modification work myself I also have several family members that are mechanics. So almost everything you listed will be extremely cheap in my situation. Where as the outright cost of a 25 engine and box is not. My main question is the tail shaft and gearbox mounting. I have been told by many people that 25 And 20 boxes are interchangeable if that's not the case I would love for someone to correct me. And the tail shaft, I was also told a non turbo r33 tail shaft would fit a 20 box but again if that's not true someone should correct me, I just want to know if there's a tail shaft shortcut or will I have to extend it myself. Thanks in advance

How about if I told you that my brother-in-law is a mechanic, that I did almost all the transplant labour myself, had access to a large pile of swappable transmission mounts, wiring loom bits etc etc?

Not so clear cut now is it?

What I told you is the truth. Believe it or not. Take our advice or not.

Yes the gearboxes are compatible. Pretty much every RB box bolts up to every other RB. But the RB20 box is weak. I destroyed the input shaft bearings on one with a mostly stock (bolt ons and some boost) RB20. That was after destroying the previous auto in it with the same power. I would never try to make more power in any Skyline these days without a 25 box behind the engine, regardless of the (turbo, obviously) engine type.

Several times the cost of the engine? A cheap Neo and box combo would be about 2.5g yeah? Explain to me how you spent over 5 grand purely on conversion costs? This doesn't include parts not needed for a conversion btw lol. Tail shaft modification, mounts, looms etc etc, over 5 grand?? "Several" so even more? Hahaha right oh wow, your brother in laws a mechanic? I also have mechanics in my family but I fail to see how you would need one if you did a conversion by yourself

Hmmmm. His workshop, his hoist, his stack of parts and looms. That's how I needed "him".

And yes. If you do stuff properly, and I don't mean cheaping out on everything, I mean buying new engine mounts, etc etc, then the costs very rapidly add up.

And no-one with half a brain buys a "cheap" Neo and box. I bought a very nice low km Neo for nearly $2k on its own. An R33 (I wouldn't use a Neo box because of the wrong clutch) box is over a grand. Then you need a flywheel (if you want to get rid of the heavy boat anchor on the original engine) possibly a clutch (although I had a good one).

So, yes, I did spend over $5k on costs. And I'm not ashamed of it.

I'm out.

friggin hell there is some retards on here. The dude quite clearly says he is aware of it not being the best option, and explains why he is doing it, to get a cheap car going. But no, everyone has to run him down and rubbish his ideas, cause it's not what 'they' would do. F&*ktards.

If you have any info to help him, post it. Otherwise STFU and quit being keyboard warriors.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...