Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Personally for my car throttle response was better....I wired my grounding kit to my throttle bodies. Shifting was better (auto). If you read g35driver or myg37, a lot of them will say the same thing. I think it's also all the electronics and drive by wire system.

Camr33 - I'd think your car may have a tune done to it if it felt really different in terms of acceleration and power. Like Greg said, some tunes allow stock ECU to be used.

I wouldn't say its in my head, as I didn't know it had a grounding kit until after I bought it.

But it definitely had a definite power advantage over the others I drove, like I said- is there a way I can tell if it is chipped or has aftermarket cams

PS: It could also just be a tight engine... My V35 350GT goes hard (compared to others) and I'm not surprised... with such low mileage and the condition it was in when it was sold, it makes sense to me.

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

So thought I would get a baseline done on my V36.

Vehicle is stock in the way of performance mods.

Car year: 2012

Millage: 20,500km

Trans: 7sp auto

Fuel: 98 octane fuel

Temp: 26-28 degrees with low humidity (perth summer)

Dyno: dynapac (hub dyno)

Power: 220kW at 6600rpm

Torque: 340Nm at 4600rpm

I feel that these are unusually high numbers thoughts?

So thought I would get a baseline done on my V36.

Vehicle is stock in the way of performance mods.

Car year: 2012

Millage: 20,500km

Trans: 7sp auto

Fuel: 98 octane fuel

Temp: 26-28 degrees with low humidity (perth summer)

Dyno: dynapac (hub dyno)

Power: 220kW at 6600rpm

Torque: 340Nm at 4600rpm

I feel that these are unusually high numbers thoughts?

It's not out of the question, there are a number of different factors at play not withstanding that particular dyno itself may read a bit optimistic on average(If it is a hub dyno i think they tend to read a bit higher than a rolling dyno anyway, but not much).

If you do get performance mods make sure it's on the same dyno for this reason so it will give you a more reliable comparison.

Will do, my intention is to keep continuity with dynos.

I will shortly be adding some:

Fast Intentions HFCs,

Motordyne M370 intake and

Cash flow dependent the Takeka CAI

Then dyno, retune an report back.

On a side note: I was having a chat with the tuner today and he said that the ecu learnt very quick eg: he did 6 runs the first 4 ran rich AFR then leaned out in the last two without any input from his end.

Guessing most of these v36's are autos with stock ecu thus the 180km/h limit, can everyone chime in what gear was the dyno run done? im guessing that will affect these numbers for sure...

For example to do a whole rpm band dyno run, they would have to be done in 3rd gear as it would cutoff at 180km/s in 4th before it redlines...

just my thoughts :)

  • Like 1

I requested the uprev lic be aquirred for my vehicle prior to the dyno runs to allow the removal of the limiter which for reference was reached in 4th in the low 6000rpms (first run before limiter removal.

I raised the question when I was informed that the run was undertaken in 4th "why it wasn't performed in the 1:1 gear (5th on the 7sp)." The tuners response was the power that is made by the car isnt dependent on the gear, rather the gears determine what rpm that power gets put down in... For example the peak power remains the same in all gears it's just seen earlier in the rpm band in lower gears.

Now this is just my understanding (not nessarilly correct), so jump in with any corrections.

Now torque on the other hand I would assume is a different subject?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

What dyno machine did you use?

I got 180rkw with stillen hfc uprev base tune on dynodynamics.

I ran the diagnosis with obde2, no error codes, Afr is around 12.2 under wot.

I got 5AT 08 SP. Going to get Takeda Rc2 Cai and go for a proper tune when i have time, prolly have to inject more fuel after cai to get the afr under 12 with wot

Edited by Colt357

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...