Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As stated in the title brand new dry sump kit for RB26DETT will fit R32, 33 or 34 GTR requires modified front sway bar for clearance of the pump (Whiteline sway bar supplied with R32 GTR kit) The kit has been extensively tested on several 450 + KW GTR's and is the kit the Employment Medicine R32GTR that will be running at world time attack is fitted with.

The kit consists of.
1 x Peterson (R4 Model) 5 stage oil pump.
1 x billet oil pump mounting bracket.
1 x Peterson 3 gallon oil tank.
1 x oil tank mount.
1 x Breather tank (for the main oil tank)
1 x billet drive spindle to suite either ATI 1000HP/ATI600HP balancer.
1 x billet oil block (replaces factory heat exchanger oil filter mount).
1 x remote oil filter mount.
1 x Custom internally baffled RB26 sump with 3 oil pick ups. (front diff not included).
All oil pump drive pullys and belt.
All bolts required.

All the billet parts in the kit are machined from 7075 T6 aircraft grade aluminium and anodised black.
The only thing required to fit the kit are braided hose and fittings.

Please Note; The pump shown in the pics attached is the older style G Rotor Peterson 5stage pump the kit is now supplied with the newer R4 style pump.

THE PRICE FOR THE KIT IS $7500.00 INTERESTED PARTIES PLEASE PM OR CALL ME ON MOB PH 0417305401. DAZ.

post-15992-0-45312300-1412857033_thumb.jpg

post-15992-0-24846300-1412857119_thumb.jpg

post-15992-0-15479500-1412857297_thumb.jpg

post-15992-0-33961300-1412857377_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449561-gtr-dry-sump-kit/
Share on other sites

Not that I can afford it - for me this is the type of gear dreams are made of... but just so i understand it better, im assuming the tank would get mounted in the boot and the oil line gets mounted under the car or what?

Gavin

Yeah Gavin the pump in my set up is mounted in the boot with the lines running under the car as my car still has rego. A lot of guys with track only "Non Rego Cars" will often mount the tank on the passenger floor.

Hi,

Can you also provide a pump and pulleys for a RB30?

Hi racegtst the pump and pulleys will be the same but I would need to machine a separate bracket for the pump mount if you are definitely interested send me a pm and we can discuss further.

that isn't an r4 pump. nice kit.

Please read the entire post mate i do mention at the bottom of the post that the pump pictured is the older style G Rotor pump but the kit will be supplied with an R4 Pump.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

And how much use has the pump had??

Everything in the kit is brand new mate this is a brand new complete kit.

As this is the last full kit I have for sale as I have two more going onto some project cars I'm willing to take $6500.00 absolute bottom dollar to move it.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...