Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Leak test done....

Double wrap the inlet & outlet with plastic and rubber bands and sink it into the bath tub... no air bubles leaking out....... GREAT! Taking the plastic off the inlet also reveals the inside is dry..... funny to see the FMIC swimming around the bath tub, had to hold it down to keep it from floating, which is good - means there is air inside.

Guess I'll go with option D, i'll get on with it and perhaps do some repair as Sydneykid has given some tips...

Cheers guys.... :cheers:

Case closed.

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You will not be charged customs + GST on a warranty replacement: there is a customs exemption code for it -- I'm sure nengun can give it to you.

One question: how do you know it wasn't damaged during transit rather than at customs?

Lucien.

I do not know where it got damaged...

I ordered 2 ARC FMICs at same time. One sent to me mate, one to meself.

Mate got his package almost a week before mine - no damage.

I get a bad feeling about mine as 4 working days past no news.

When I got it, package shows signs of box been opened and resealed. Inside all plastic packaging has been opened. Maybe this is standard procedure to prevent people inserting other substance (e.g. drugs) inside. Thus damage must be during custom inspection or during repackaging they may not put the padding in the correct position anymore.

Who knows... ;)

On the bright side, talked to nengun and package is fully insured - so will organise claim and insurance replacement on Monday... may be another 2-3 weeks wait coz ARC makes FMIC only when someone orders (at least 10 days to make it), but I'm not really in a hurry to put it in.

dunno how it works, but i was told to just show them the photo and fill up the form. looks like the claim to the insurance will be done on seller's behalf in japan, not on my side.

If its like any otehr insurance company then it will take around a month before you get any money back.

It is new, fresh from the factory. I actually had to wait 2 weeks for the intercooler to be fabricated as they will only make it if someone order. I think most japanese manufacturers are doing it this way with most parts like intercoolers and exhaust.

Guess i will have to organise a warranty replacement with nengun as he said he'll arrange a replacement one sent as soon as he receives all documents he requires. Another 3 weeks wait... oh well.. but at least if the item is new, it may hold more value in the future...

I'll keep you guys posted how it goes...

  • 2 weeks later...

The nerve of someone (I don't care who - customs or courier) damaging your cooler and then not saying anything...

There must be so many people out there who don't complain about these things for them to think they could get away with things like this...

The damaged one most likely get sent back to Japan so nengun can claim insurance on his behalf there (all cost including shipping)... Good thing I don't have to pay $200+ shipping cost back to Japan as the damaged one is sent to an agent in Sydney, so in the end cost me $20-odd only to deliver it there.... FMIC can be replaced, but the hassle, the heart break, and the wasted time waiting for another replacement can't be replaced.

And true Pappaduck, no one can even pin-point exactly the pr1ck who was heavy handed with the FMIC in the first place, they just get away with it and we just have to bit the bullet.

But hey - it's life... sh1t happens... This is the 1st time in 3 yrs it happens anyway.

No use whinging abt the past now.

GOOD NEWS GOOD NEWS GOOD NEWS!!!!!!

Replacement has arrived today - in mint condition. It has note on it that it is a refund and the buyer (me) can show proof of previous tax paid on it (good thing I kept all my papers). Customs won't bother opening it this time, and not a single dint in it now! Very happy. Fast replacement by nengun - I'd recommend him to anyone who is after any parts from Japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...