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Whoever did the plumbing of the all vac lines & breather lines should be revoked of his man hood and grow a vagina..

You need to plumb back OR block the PCV line going back into the plenum as the car is still running an AFM.

mmmm..... once my hands better I will be on the tig for a few hours i think.... new cooler piping and AN fittings in the rocker while im at it.

I just noticed your breather set up. pick up a length of 5/8's hose and connect the breathers to the PCV and the intake pipe between the turbo and AFM.

Also is that an O2 sensor bung in the dump pipe?

going to change it all to AN fittings and do it right (oil catch can+breather, might move pcv while im at it) and yeah the o2 is in the dump, bung you can see is plugged but there is another one with a sensor in it.

Don't mean to intrude but where is the PCV valve and what does it do?

Start of the green line is the PCV

http://s47.photobucket.com/user/placham/media/274010mgvm3mod.jpg.html

Its there to stop possitive crank case pressure im pretty sure.

PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Positive as opposed to passive or simply vented.

In any engine combustion gases make it past the rings into the crankcase. A completely sealed crankcase will build to positive pressure, which is no blooduy good as it causes oil seals to pop out, dipsticks to pop out, oil to come out, etc etc. It's also bad for windage/drag and various other issues. A completely open crankcase will vent a whole lot of nasty gases and vapours to the atmosphere. Used to bhappen like that. Pollution laws from the 70s onwardfs dealt with that. PCV allows the engine's intake system to act as a vacuum source to suck gases out of the crankcase. The PCV valve only opens when the conditions are right - ie in a turbo engine you wouldn't want it open during boost, as there would then be a lot of pressure jammed into the crankcase. The "Positive" part of the name is that air is positively allowed to flow into the crankcase so that the inlet suction doesn't create a vacuum in the engine either. The fresh air is drawn from the turbo inlet pipe - ie - it's metered air having come through the AFM, then it passes through the crankcase then it is ingested into the engine and burnt and therefore the mixtures are always "correct".

It's when people start modifying the inlet tracts of their cars without understanding what all this stuff does that the most interesting f**kups occur.

If you have an AFM still in use, then your PCV setup really does need to draw fresh air from the turbo inlet, yes. Have a look at the plumbing on the top of a standard RB to see where the air comes from and goes too.

You might also want to have a look at how a proper catch can setup is installed too. You might want to consider inserting one into your bretaher system - depending on how much your engine is breathing of course. Adding a catch can means thinking through things a bit more thoroughly, but there are some good posts in the oil control and so on threads on here for guidance.

Ok so I have made some progress....kind of....

I have temporarly blocked off minus one breather on the rocker cover and run the pcv, cleaned all coilpacks and regapped plugs, rechecked for vac leaks, cleaned afm, new fuel filter all the usual bits
Car now starts clean as but stalls out straight away. I can feed it and keep it alive (sounds wicked, no more fuel smell or smoke) but as soon as i take foot off it stalls, ecu is still giving me code 43 but all voltages are fine on the tps(I do get 12v on one cable tho??)..... checked and reseated the ecu plug and all the pins seem to be in the plug.

Could it have something to do with the alarm/immobilisor??

Also I noticed the boost guage sitting on about -20 when i feed it to keep it at idle.... to much yeah???

That block thats near the back of the plenum, that is your IACV (Idle air control valve)

Its on the side of the plenum, between rocker cover and plenum, there is a screw facing towards the front, can see it in your first pic.

See if adjusting that helps, you can take it right out/take the block off and see if its gummed up, might need a clean.

This is assuming the iacv is still hooked up as it should be.

Plugged pcv, will hook it all back up with new cooler piping.

Have had a go at the screw on the iacv, helped a little.

Still getting the tps error..... been stuffing with it all morning with no prevail. In the plug with 3wires I get 5v on one, 0v on the next and nothing on earth obviously and im stuffed if i know why ecu is saying its stuffed. other plug with 2wires im getting 4omns and 0omns on the other wire.

checked pins 48, 56 and 57 and all are connected and im getting readings from all. (will have to go recheck for readings)

seen about 7 differant diagrams for the 2 tps plugs which has me scratching my head again. I know the switch is hooked up correctly but the other plug im not so sure about, all have been extended for that bloody ffp....
Plug has 3 wires, yellow, WHITE, and black BUT!!! where its joining to the loom (near injectors) its yellow, BROWN, and black (brown is a shield i think, there is a white wire inside it)

HELP ME!!!!! lol.......

Car really wants to run and does nicely if i keep revs up manually but just wont idle.....

Check continuity of those wires from TPS plug back to ECU plug. Use wiring diagram to make sure that you know which is supposed to be which and if they are supposed to go somewhere other than the ECU too!

Note: the RB20 engine wiring diagram is available in the back of the R32 GTR workshop manual, which can no doubt be downloaded from numerous sources.

Check continuity of those wires from TPS plug back to ECU plug. Use wiring diagram to make sure that you know which is supposed to be which and if they are supposed to go somewhere other than the ECU too!

Note: the RB20 engine wiring diagram is available in the back of the R32 GTR workshop manual, which can no doubt be downloaded from numerous sources.

Might be time for someone that knows what they are doing....

Anyone on the forums know what they are doing and want to make some cash money?? lol.....

Have the diagrams here but not 100% sure what im doing when it comes to wiring

Thanks for your help guys. Had auto sparky here and he sussed it straight away, signal wire for the tps was connected to the shield as well as the wire.... ecu code 55 now :yes:

Was causing the ecu to kill revs and stall the car.

Now running mint again :)

PS: after sorting pcv i noticed the cold start etc piping was hooked up wrong which had a decent hand in the problem.

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