Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25De Stalls When Put Into Reverse Or Drive

UCD15R33
 Share

Recommended Posts

UCD15R33 Experienced

UCD15R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sorry guys, Car was been fine up until Wednesday this week. The Car had a miss on Thursday but I found a dead coil easy solved. The auto transmission fluid was replaced Thursday this week. Since then it wouldn't change gear without stalling. I have checked and cleaned the IAC, Replaced all spark plugs, cleaned air filter box and replaced air filter, replace all vacuum hoses but still no go. and replaced the sump gasket.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Well it certainly sounds related to the fluid change.

Don't bother with the O2 sensor, that won't cause that.

Does it just die or stop suddenly?

What trans fluid was used and how much?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Won't be the oxy sensor. Will either be a problem with the converter (clutch stuck on perhaps - which could be an electrical issue) or an idle control issue. Can you keep it alive by keeping the throttle open or will it then drive forward? Easy way to diagnose both issues at the same time!

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sounds like converter is locked. If you're at the limits of your diagnostic abilities at this point, you're probably going to have to tell him to get it to an auto trans specialist. It might be something simple like a wiring fault, but it might be something mechanical that got triggered or otherwise happened when the oil was dropped.

Edited by GTSBoy
FJ RB25 Enthusiast

FJ RB25

Posted
Posted
  On 17/10/2014 at 4:13 AM, GTSBoy said:

Sounds like converter is locked. If you're at the limits of your diagnostic abilities at this point, you're probably going to have to tell him to get it to an auto trans specialist. It might be something simple like a wiring fault, but it might be something mechanical that got triggered or otherwise happened when the oil was dropped.

yep thats what I said.
sleptema Proficient

sleptema

Posted
Posted

Pretty sure you mentioned that it does when put in gear like 4-5 times. Righto, thanks mate, wasn't completely sure about that until the 4th time I thought you were just pulling our legs.

What fluid did you use? And how did you change the oil? I have heard of people running the wrong oil (wrong additives/weight) and it would actually weld the transmission and diff together after a while. If it attempts to go into gear it's not the selector. I'd say she's done farked.

FJ RB25 Enthusiast

FJ RB25

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey UCD

When even trying to diagnose a problem it is often a good place to start at what has been changed as in majority of cases this is a good place to start ( not broke before changing anything but now is after changing something )

You are saying that the trans oil has been changed but you were not present when the oil was changed ( is this correct ?)

And

You had a problem with a coil ( did you test the car after you changed the coil) ?

The problem you are describing sounds like a converter lock up clutch staying locked up ( google how a converter works and you will see some vids on YouTube)

Basically a converter clutch will lock up at a certain rpm, I.e. 2500 rpm stall = lock up clutch will lock up at 2500 rpm

If your lock up is locked up from the get go then you will stall the engine either in reverse or drive.

If the engine is standard then the converter should lock up around 2000 rpm I think.

Not sure how you could test if it is the converter but I would imagine that if the engine was kept above the converter stall it should run. I.e if you took the car to 2000rpm and changed gear each time above 2000rpm or stall then it shouldn't stall in theory.

Now I have had Eff all to do with auto,s but that is what I have self learnt from the net and YouTube, reading books, not having a dig here but look at the net or ring a auto trans shop.

All the best mate, oh and before anyone else mentions

Stick a turbo on that De

Edited by FJ RB25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr 路 Posted

      Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 馃槃  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Kinkstaah
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr 路 Posted

      Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • niZmO_Man
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By niZmO_Man 路 Posted

      Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gtt Wheel Offset Advice

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
脳
脳
  • Create New...