Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Both Waterford Panel Beater and Kudos Motorsports have been more than helpful in assisting during the whole insurance claim and helping me decide whether or not to go ahead with the restore work on the gtr. Unfortunately the cost of restore is more than what I would like to pay.

Waterford Panel Beater

James is a down to earth person with a passion for restoring cars to excellent condition, kinda reminds me of Dan from ERD. Unfortunately I've decided to not keep to car but I am sure he will do a good job if I did. This is based on the work I see him do and reviews from friends. My experience with him has been nothing but good. He is a busy man but never fails to follow up on request and I do feel bad interrupting him during work. Before the accident I thought only Cameron Body Works the only go to for panel work but now I know where to bring my next car to should I need any work done.

Kudos Motorsport

Andrew is quick and positive about everything. The list of parts I gave him wasnt exactly easy but he manage to turn that around within 3days with a really good price too. To anyone after parts, definitely give Andrew a go. I have bought parts from him in the past and he's been extremely helpful all the time. He's just located at Gold Coast which makes collection easy too.

Cheers.

Sad to hear about the end result for you, really... Cameron's bodyworks? If only I could take back the 7g I paid for a respray and paint it myself with a roller

  • Like 2

Ant: I was involved in a 4 car accident on my car to Dreamworld. The car in front of me was too close to the car in front and jammed brake. I don't think I'd get out of it even if I were to go through it again because I was a good 3-4 car behind her. Anyway that's all history.

Nooba: That's what he said to me when he bought it off me. I was actually looking for someone to restore it and if I cant find anyone, I'll let it go to someone that's gonna wreck it. Anyway that's disappointing but it's his car anyway.

Hopefully the inspection will go well tomorrow for my next car. Else I'll just be driving around in a 4cyc turbo diesel until I got money for a R34 M-Spec NUR.

Ant: I was involved in a 4 car accident on my car to Dreamworld. The car in front of me was too close to the car in front and jammed brake. I don't think I'd get out of it even if I were to go through it again because I was a good 3-4 car behind her. Anyway that's all history.

Nooba: That's what he said to me when he bought it off me. I was actually looking for someone to restore it and if I cant find anyone, I'll let it go to someone that's gonna wreck it. Anyway that's disappointing but it's his car anyway.

Hopefully the inspection will go well tomorrow for my next car. Else I'll just be driving around in a 4cyc turbo diesel until I got money for a R34 M-Spec NUR.

thats a real shame. Brandon. I recall an accident happening around dreamworld a few weeks ago.

Only just realised you had an N1

Such a shame. At least you have insurance

Best of luck with the NUR spec mate

thats a real shame. Brandon. I recall an accident happening around dreamworld a few weeks ago.

Only just realised you had an N1

Such a shame. At least you have insurance

Best of luck with the NUR spec mate

All the best with your future search Brandon.

Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...