Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On my 93 R33, the brake pedal has a really bad habit of knocking you back or holding you in a spot if you apply pressure to fast, for example in a panic brake situation. This is BEFORE you even reach the initial bite point of the brakes. It has resistance with zero actual braking force and its totally dependant on how fast you apply pressure.

Lets say if you try slam on the brakes while you are driving down the road and see something, the pedal will get rock hard, completely keeping the pedal from getting to the point where the brakes bite. It will hover here no mater how hard yo press, the harder you press the stiffer it gets. After a few seconds it will start to move down again at its own rate (kind of like a shock absorber) and get into the point where the brakes bite normally. IF you ease the pedal slowly down during the first parts of the movement, getting past the initial movement slowly, you can then slam it down and it wont lock up on you.

What exactly is going on here.

The brakes are strong and dont have a lot of pedal travel otherwise.

Edited by sonicz

Something is f**ked.....

Are you able to pull the master cylinder and booster off?

If not take it to a brake place asap. That's some dangerous shit right there.

  • Like 2

Doesn't matter.

Has to be taken apart and fixed regardless. It could be the pivot point.

Doesn't change the fact it's extremely dangerous and a chat on a forum won't fix it.

  • Like 1

Maybe it came across a bit too dramatically. Its not scary bad, its just a bit strange and the brakes otherwise feel like they are working easily and normally. The car recently passed rego and a average driver they probably would not even notice it. I guess I could describe the brakes using the common "mushy" or "spongy" terminology, but only at the start of the pedal travel and then they bite down really well and strong. Normally when brakes a spongy they are spongy throughout.

I am going to change the brake fluid as I think it could be air in the brake fluid making things mushy. Use any Dot 5.1 grade right? Its ABS equipped.

The perfect analogy would be the shock absorber on your computer chair. Take the chair all the way to the top, then hold the handle which allows you to go down again and sit on it fast from a height whilst holding the handle. You'll notice it wont let you just slam the chair straight down, but rather resist you plenty initially, then ease of holding you back and let you go down at a faster pace

Edited by sonicz

Just changed the pads and fluid and its much better now. Looks like it was related to air and water in the old possibly never changed brake fluid. It still has about 30% of that stiffness left however so I wonder if it was done right.

Yea most of the old stuff out, though obviously some residuals would be left in reservoir tank and lining of components. I think the order was rear left rear right front left front right.

I had/have no idea that you cant mix synthetic and mineral based. Have no idea what the previous owner had. I used dot 5.1 from supercheap.

How come all the "good" stuff seems to be dot 4? Is that ok to use? I think dot 5 is the one not to use, correct?

I still feel like there is air in the system somewhere that gets pumped around, maybe stuck in the ABS unit, how on earth do you bleed that.

Edited by sonicz

Dot 4 is fine mate, wasting your money on 5.. You can't use dot 4 when the system recommends dot 5 as the seals won't like it..

But you can go away the other way as far as I know,

That order was correct

I still feel like there is air in the system somewhere that gets pumped around, maybe stuck in the ABS unit, how on earth do you bleed that.

I had a lot of issues bleeding our brake systems, until I bought a vac bleeder. First time every time now and it's a one man operation.

Sounds like the seal is shot in your booster. Just grab another. I have an auto one here... (The manual booster is smaller I am told, to fit the clutch slave cylinder.)

Thanks for the tips guys. I don't think anything is wrong with my seals or components, at first I suspected it may be the case, but now I'm pretty sure it was just air in the system as they are a lot better now.

At the moment its ok, but still I don't feel it was done 100% right. IT seems the Skyline brake system is not an easy one to bleed, something in the design makes it that if you're not spot on and know exactly what to do you will have problems, certainly more so than other cars like mazdas I've owned.

Scotty, any info on where to pickup a cheap vac bleeder?

Edited by sonicz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...