Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

Your assumption that I am a numpty is the problem.

I'm not assuming you're a numpty. I'm not (a numpty), and I freely admit to having set mine up incorrectly, despite trying very hard to set them up properly. This is simply because they are an absolute bear to keep perfectly set up while you tighten everything up. More to the point, having learnt my lesson the first time, I have had them apart many times since (as detailed in my own diary thread on the topic) and have managed to not get it right more times. Filling the boots with grease (which I highly recommend!) doesn't help with setting them up in the least. Makes it 10x harder.

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

Researched options and spoke to people that own them

> Spoke to GKTech about my intended purpose being road use.

> Installed, followed instructions

Sounds like me....

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

Had professional suspension place(road and race) go over all suspension prior to engineering.

> Engineer reviewed all suspension, photographed, signed off and submitted to DOT (yes inc camber arms)

> DOT carried out a full inspection of vehicle, again including these arms.

So I skipped these bits. But....I would not expect that the nuances of exactly how fiddly these arms are to get all 3 of the joints centred would necessarily register on any of those people in that list. Including and especially the engineer and the DOT. The suspension shop, maybe, probably, hopefully. But again - they are outside the experience of most such, so it's not unexpected for them to miss something.

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

The suspension place was explicitly asked to check.

Even with this. Yes, I know.

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

If it had bound on setup, i would have also expect it to fail closer to install, not 6 months later.

No, see that's the nature of it. If you set them up so that they only hit at a particularly large deflection, and you only bump them occasionally, then you could stress them a few times and eventually start a crack. And then, in the middle of just driving along with normal road undulation being the only input to the suspension, the crack makes it all the way through and they let go. Happens all the time with such things. Similar to how I shattered a CV joint just backing out of the  driveway. Was fine driving the day before, was not thrashed backing out of the driveway - but that motion was the last straw in the ball cage, which had obviously had a long and hard life before that moment.

 

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

It would suggest more likely to me a regular checking of product is required, the product is not suitable for road use(even with engineering)

Oh, absolutely. I know I'm "doing the wrong thing" by using them on the road. I went through a phase of inspecting them extensively and spent a lot of time developing sufficient confidence in them that I don't dismantle them every few months now, like I used to. But I still check every year (it's been a year, so I'm technically telling a lie about that, but I'm not driving the car, given that I'm 2000km away most of the time lately).

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

or a fault of the product has occurred here.

Also possible. But the rod ends they use are not weak. They're pretty beefy. So it would have to be a batch/random problem more likely than a systematic product problem.

 

On 6/24/2021 at 1:26 PM, Butters said:

It is from what I see an unusual event, so if you are correct it is a setup issue, then it is a really good learning for others that should be shared.

Absolutely. It's another reason why I didn't want to load up my rear suspension with spherical joints. I don't need to add more inspection/maintenance load to my daily.

Thanks for the above reply :)

 

Quote

So I skipped these bits. But....I would not expect that the nuances of exactly how fiddly these arms are to get all 3 of the joints centred would necessarily register on any of those people in that list. Including and especially the engineer and the DOT. The suspension shop, maybe, probably, hopefully. But again - they are outside the experience of most such, so it's not unexpected for them to miss something.

I tend to agree. I have really struggled to find a suspension shop I am happy with. These guys did make basic mistakes.

 

-------------------------

Given how this conversation has gone and what I have learned, I really think these are track car only.

I have bushes going into standard arms today :)

 

 

 

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...