Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Rb25det neo with high flow turbo making 220rwkw. Track car.

Last two track nights I've blown two turbo gaskets. Had some crappy $7 composite gasket on when I bought the engine, so I replaced it with a factory metal one but that also blew out :/ I double checked all the nuts and they were tight, aswell as having the clips on them to reduce movement.

Turbo glows red.. I don't know if I need a special gasket to withstand the heat? I've tried searching the forums but couldn't find a clear answer.

Which type of gasket is the best for track cars? It's just such a lengthy job to change it so I want to do it one more time but make sure it doesn't break this time.

Cheers

Also, 220rwkW is not much for a high flow. Especially to be getting it hot and red. So the question becomes.....what sort of highflow is it? A less restrictive rear end might be needed. You might have a hell of a lot of back pressure and heat going on in there.

Turbo is only running 10psi.. Unsure of what type of highflow. It's steel wheeled and about 8mm larger in diameter. 220rwkw maxed out the stock injectors using a nistune.

I've got a 3 inch bell mouth dump pipe going to twin 2 1/4 inch straight pipes. No mufflers or cats.

Tabs are done up tightly. Warping definitely could be plausible. The gaskets blow out long ways inbetween the bolts, parallel to the rocker covers.

I've purchased a multilayered steel gasket, permaseal I believe.

I got a small metal ruler (closest straight edge object I could find) and the flange is slightly bowed in a concave shape. That being, the centre surface of the flange is further in than the surface of the studs.

What can be done to fix this? And to further prevent this from happening. It's only bowed 0.5-1mm roughly.

make sure your exhaust is supported by more than the manifold. check your fuel pressure is good...this glowing red hot thing isn't good. Just get the manifold surface machined flat. I used a cometic multilayer steel gasket had no problems since.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the glowing red turbo, if that's how she looks after hard work. As a track car it would be spending most of its time doing just that.

Around 500 deg C is cherry red for steel and a hard working turbo runs a lot hotter than that.

Of course when just puttering along, a different story.

As for the gasket, I'd straight edge check the manifold and turbo, may need to have both machined.

As has been posted, check that the exhaust isn't exerting too much weight, might need some assistance via extra brackets.

Does the engine move around a lot, mounts may be tired allowing the exhaust to hang differently to when at rest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...