Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

More than enough chatting in this thread thanks.

If you want to buy this block or clarify something about it, this is the place for it.  If you want a billet or n1 block please find a relevant thread

  • Like 2

I mustn't have been clear enough.  No chatting in FS threads, if you want a discussion of different blocks start a thread to so so elsewhere.

Next off topic or chatting posters will be warned and/or banned.

  • 3 weeks later...

I'm interested, but I am waiting for the sale of a house to close before I'd have the funds. In the USA. Any reason why you are against Paypal?

7 hours ago, [200] said:

I am over their fees and having to give my personal information to them to accept payments of this sum.

Not that interested in shipping overseas anymore either.

Understandable. When I have funds available and if you still have it, I'll see if I can work something out so you don't have to deal with shipping it. I may even decide to fly there with the wife for vacation and I could just come see it for myself, ha ha.

  • 4 months later...

Bump.

Price dropped to 10k firm.

Will ship anywhere, paypal okay if you're happy to cover the fees.

I've put this up on the facebook group too. It only seems to attract those people willing to throw their 2 cents in about the billet blocks and it get a bit boring reading their shit.

If no luck locally I will advertise it overseas, probably a bit sooner than later too while the USD is good for an American buyer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...