Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The tacho in my R32 GT-R is lying to me and telling me I'm idling at 6000rpm. Pissed me off enough to pull it out to fix it but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the face and needle off to resolder the circuit board underneath. Tried searching here, the web, youtube etc and nothing has shed light on it. I don't really just want to yank on it and break it if there is a simple solution.

Thanks guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451551-resoldering-r32-tachometer/
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

After about a week it started dancing around again, so I resoldered it again. I must have stuffed it up because the needle moves really slowly, like hit the rev limiter and it's climbing through 3k on the dial. Fed up with it now, going to replace the whole thing. Not going to buy a new cluster as it will probably start doing it as well, just going to rip out the tacho and stuff an aftermarket one in there. Went to order one online and realised I have no idea how big the dial is, I'm currently interstate and my car is getting some minor things fixed and a dyno tune done, so I can't measure it up. Does anyone know how big the hole in the surround is that the tacho pokes through? Can't find anything online.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
×
×
  • Create New...