Jump to content
SAU Community

Cat Temp Light

Sherrybaby

By Sherrybaby,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Sherrybaby Enthusiast

Sherrybaby

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I have just recently purchased my 89 GTR.....

I've had it for a couple of weeks & now i'm having starting issues - when i start it, its sometimes a little rough but fine when i drive, but if i try and start it while its warm or leave it idling the cat light comes on & the car shuts itself off- mind you its only idling for 30 seconds tops, battery light comes on & also the oil pressure goes right down & light comes on also.

I have absolutely not a clue whats causing it..

Any ideas?!

:wacko:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/
Share on other sites
Sherrybaby Enthusiast

Sherrybaby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But would that cause the car to just not turn on?

i am a bit confused as to why the battery light & oil pressure lights are coming on too & would it normally completely shut the car off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443288
Share on other sites
XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

It sounds like the car has a few issues which is a given given the car is 25 years old now so it is going to be a case of one thing at a time, the cat light is there to indicate the cat is dead so change it and go from there, cat convertor a are a service item and need to be changed periodicly, even worse if it still has the compliance cat

The oil pressure problem is a common one with 32s unfortunately which requires a seperate oil pressure test and then new sender unit

As for battery I had an issue like this year and years ago and it turned out to be the fusible link connection at the battery had corroded, I cut it off and put an eyelet back on and no more issue

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443312
Share on other sites
Sherrybaby Enthusiast

Sherrybaby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah, it does have a few issues......

I think i might take it to a specialist.....

Anyone know any good ones in/around Wollongong

it would make sense though if the altenator was going dead - that wld explain the battery light & also the Cat/engine light - but oil pressure... not so sure...

The gentleman who i bought it from said he has recently replaced the battery... so it could be a start point

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443355
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

... the oil pressure goes right down & light comes on also.

I have absolutely not a clue whats causing it..

Any ideas?!

:wacko:

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should).

My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443429
Share on other sites
XKLABA Grand Master

XKLABA

Posted
Posted

I can't remember now (it's been a while), but a flashing cat temp warning light means something is wrong with the ECU?

I haven't had a factory ECU since 2006 but iirc the cat light isn't connected to the ECU and it's the engine light flashing is an ECU fault but could be wrong

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should).

My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.

The oil pressure gauge in the RB26 in R32s playing up is realitively common, especially in the earlier ones, but is something that should be takin on the side of caution and tested properly before moving on

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443444
Share on other sites
GTRPSI Mentor

GTRPSI

Posted
Posted

I also had low oil pressure readings, changed the oil pressure sender with a new one and issue fixed.

Cat probe is a temperature sensor, when i first got my GTR the probe was not in, just coiled up under the car and the bunge plugged off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443457
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

XKLABA,

You are talking about the gauge, and, yes, they are problematic in that the sender sometimes fails or gives erratic signals.

I'm talking about the "Oh $HIT" light. I can't recall ever having the light come on even if the gauge is reading 0. Only time is when I genuinely have low oil, and therefore low, ie 0, oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443496
Share on other sites
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

I haven't had a factory ECU since 2006 but iirc the cat light isn't connected to the ECU and it's the engine light flashing is an ECU fault but could be wrong

I can't remember, but last year when I put in a spare Nistune'd ECU in my car, a light was flashing (to indicate faulty ECU, sigh).

From Nistune:

Nistune Installation and Communications Diagnostics

Guide Page 18 of 28

6.2 Type 2 boards

Check section 4 if you can’t connect to your ECU.

Signs of limp mode on common ECUs:

1) R32 RB20DET, BNR32 RB26DETT

• ECU red LED and Exhaust Warning Light on dash will flash on / off

• Will not be able to connect to the ECU using consult

• Vehicle may start in limp mode but will not rev above 2000rpm without leaning out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443505
Share on other sites
Sherrybaby Enthusiast

Sherrybaby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just checked the oil level - just to see....

Its on high, but it smells a bit like fuel (not sure if thats normal or not)

But the cat light/engine light doesnt flash - it stays on & the car wont start .... when it cut out on me whilst idling the other day it came on & the car turned off within a second... it was weird...

Im pretty sure ive got two issues going on atm...

Im going to do an oil pressure test & gut the cat at this stage... see whats going on...

Because mine is an earlier GTR im not sure if it has two sensors for the cat or just the one... a mate was saying if there is two i think you can disconnect it & bridge it somewhere ( i cant quite remember)

Ive got an Apexi Power FC here ready to go in if need be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443678
Share on other sites
Sherrybaby Enthusiast

Sherrybaby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah i think at this stage im just going to gut the cat..... Ive got the boost pretty low so i doubt thats it.....

i honestly think ive got a few dramas atm.. which isnt unexpected, its an old car :)

But she is still my girl no less!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443695
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

If you have fuel diluting the engine oil, you have a problem. I would strongly recommend an oil change immediately, then investigate why the oil is being contaminated by petrol (possibly a blowby problem).

And gutting the cat can be highly expensive - if you get caught with a gutted cat. Replace it if you think it's contributing to the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7444501
Share on other sites
Sherrybaby Enthusiast

Sherrybaby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, i have an update....

I was driving it to the place i was getting it looked at.... the light came on while i was driving & i lost all power... I changed down gears & pumped the accelorator, until i finally regained power & it made a bang sound... then i regained power & it hasnt boosted so hard since i have had it. ANDDD the light hasnt come back on since :) :)

Im de-gutting my cat this weekend, so i will see how it goes again....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7449096
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...