Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have just recently purchased my 89 GTR.....

I've had it for a couple of weeks & now i'm having starting issues - when i start it, its sometimes a little rough but fine when i drive, but if i try and start it while its warm or leave it idling the cat light comes on & the car shuts itself off- mind you its only idling for 30 seconds tops, battery light comes on & also the oil pressure goes right down & light comes on also.

I have absolutely not a clue whats causing it..

Any ideas?!

:wacko:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/
Share on other sites

But would that cause the car to just not turn on?

i am a bit confused as to why the battery light & oil pressure lights are coming on too & would it normally completely shut the car off?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443288
Share on other sites

It sounds like the car has a few issues which is a given given the car is 25 years old now so it is going to be a case of one thing at a time, the cat light is there to indicate the cat is dead so change it and go from there, cat convertor a are a service item and need to be changed periodicly, even worse if it still has the compliance cat

The oil pressure problem is a common one with 32s unfortunately which requires a seperate oil pressure test and then new sender unit

As for battery I had an issue like this year and years ago and it turned out to be the fusible link connection at the battery had corroded, I cut it off and put an eyelet back on and no more issue

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443312
Share on other sites

Yeah, it does have a few issues......

I think i might take it to a specialist.....

Anyone know any good ones in/around Wollongong

it would make sense though if the altenator was going dead - that wld explain the battery light & also the Cat/engine light - but oil pressure... not so sure...

The gentleman who i bought it from said he has recently replaced the battery... so it could be a start point

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443355
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

... the oil pressure goes right down & light comes on also.

I have absolutely not a clue whats causing it..

Any ideas?!

:wacko:

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should).

My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443429
Share on other sites

I can't remember now (it's been a while), but a flashing cat temp warning light means something is wrong with the ECU?

I haven't had a factory ECU since 2006 but iirc the cat light isn't connected to the ECU and it's the engine light flashing is an ECU fault but could be wrong

Have you checked the oil level in the sump? Have you changed the oil recently? (if not, maybe you should).

My experience is that the oil pressure light is usually not caused by a fault in the sender; it genuinely means that there is no oil pressure.

The oil pressure gauge in the RB26 in R32s playing up is realitively common, especially in the earlier ones, but is something that should be takin on the side of caution and tested properly before moving on

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443444
Share on other sites

I also had low oil pressure readings, changed the oil pressure sender with a new one and issue fixed.

Cat probe is a temperature sensor, when i first got my GTR the probe was not in, just coiled up under the car and the bunge plugged off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443457
Share on other sites

XKLABA,

You are talking about the gauge, and, yes, they are problematic in that the sender sometimes fails or gives erratic signals.

I'm talking about the "Oh $HIT" light. I can't recall ever having the light come on even if the gauge is reading 0. Only time is when I genuinely have low oil, and therefore low, ie 0, oil pressure.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443496
Share on other sites

I haven't had a factory ECU since 2006 but iirc the cat light isn't connected to the ECU and it's the engine light flashing is an ECU fault but could be wrong

I can't remember, but last year when I put in a spare Nistune'd ECU in my car, a light was flashing (to indicate faulty ECU, sigh).

From Nistune:

Nistune Installation and Communications Diagnostics

Guide Page 18 of 28

6.2 Type 2 boards

Check section 4 if you can’t connect to your ECU.

Signs of limp mode on common ECUs:

1) R32 RB20DET, BNR32 RB26DETT

• ECU red LED and Exhaust Warning Light on dash will flash on / off

• Will not be able to connect to the ECU using consult

• Vehicle may start in limp mode but will not rev above 2000rpm without leaning out

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443505
Share on other sites

I just checked the oil level - just to see....

Its on high, but it smells a bit like fuel (not sure if thats normal or not)

But the cat light/engine light doesnt flash - it stays on & the car wont start .... when it cut out on me whilst idling the other day it came on & the car turned off within a second... it was weird...

Im pretty sure ive got two issues going on atm...

Im going to do an oil pressure test & gut the cat at this stage... see whats going on...

Because mine is an earlier GTR im not sure if it has two sensors for the cat or just the one... a mate was saying if there is two i think you can disconnect it & bridge it somewhere ( i cant quite remember)

Ive got an Apexi Power FC here ready to go in if need be

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443678
Share on other sites

Yeah i think at this stage im just going to gut the cat..... Ive got the boost pretty low so i doubt thats it.....

i honestly think ive got a few dramas atm.. which isnt unexpected, its an old car :)

But she is still my girl no less!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7443695
Share on other sites

If you have fuel diluting the engine oil, you have a problem. I would strongly recommend an oil change immediately, then investigate why the oil is being contaminated by petrol (possibly a blowby problem).

And gutting the cat can be highly expensive - if you get caught with a gutted cat. Replace it if you think it's contributing to the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7444501
Share on other sites

So, i have an update....

I was driving it to the place i was getting it looked at.... the light came on while i was driving & i lost all power... I changed down gears & pumped the accelorator, until i finally regained power & it made a bang sound... then i regained power & it hasnt boosted so hard since i have had it. ANDDD the light hasnt come back on since :) :)

Im de-gutting my cat this weekend, so i will see how it goes again....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451700-cat-temp-light/#findComment-7449096
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...