Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a boot leak down the sides of the boot from the edge of the rear window down to the tail lights. along that seem on both sides there are multiple leaks. I've reduced it with silicone to seal the gaps but still get through a little bit. I've stopped about 95% of the water.

Just wondering who i can go to for a permanent fix instead of a temporary fix. I think i have diagnosed the problem. Should i go to a panel beater or smash repair? or do i get someone to weld it?


It's not a huge problem but i can't put the interior in my boot because it gets nasty and wet.



My problem is similar to this guys video. i did the same thing as him but with a different product

Any help will be appreciated, cheers.

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/
Share on other sites

Pull the boot rubber off the boot opening, silicon the channel and then push it back on securely

Pull the tail lights out, silicon and put back in firmly

next day hop in the boot with a torch and get some one to spray water all over the back and check for leaks

Edit: Oh and seal all rust off from the oxygen if you have any

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444434
Share on other sites

It's not coming from the rubber seal around the boot it's coming from where the metal over lays
watch the video and look at where he is putting his sealant. and it's leaking from the top. up near the windscreen down to about half way . it's def not coming from the tail lights. it's drain perfect from there.

I highlighted in red where it's leak from in paint http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az/

My question is who do i go to, to get it permanently fixed?

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444442
Share on other sites

There is a great thread about this and has helped me and multiple other people.

The seal at the base of the window. The one with screws is a culprit. Pull it off and silicone.

The tail lights leak. Pull them out and reveal.

The bolt holes for the boot. There where it mounts to the guards leak as well. Silicone all those areas and You should have solved it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444449
Share on other sites

http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az

That's where it's coming from highlighted in red ^^^^ click that link
It's coming from where the metal overlays. very small gaps in there. I can see it dripping from about half way so i don't think it's as high up as the base of the window
I can see it dripping into my boot when i fill the gutters up (the side of the boot) with water. and when i soak up the water from where i highlighted in the gutters it magically stops so it has to be coming from there.


Edited by PranK
Fixed underlined text.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444456
Share on other sites

My goodness. The seems will be deceiving. It will find one point of entry and then find the path of least resistance to the exit.

Oh btw I got quoted over 1 k to get the boot welded and painted.

I guarantee that if you chisel out the old filler you will find where it enters because there will be a rust spot.

The seems are not welded. They have this type of putty filler that ages and cracks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444517
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Can someone recommend a sealant.

I currently use Silastic. silicone rubber from autobarn in a 75g tube. I need something bigger like selleys. I'm going to disconnect my boot and do it properly.

Should i use selleys silicone? Would that be the best thing for the job?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449773
Share on other sites

The product that I have used a million times in boats of both aluminium and fibreglass is Sikaflex. Its nutso once it sets.

Note, to get it to bond well, you'll need to really scuff the paintwork, or it just wont bond properly. Hit it with a wire brush on a drill or a dremel and then apply it.

Also, Keep it dry for a few days. Rain and storms this week, it you dont have a garage then just wait.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449893
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...