Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at importing in Jan and thought I'd post up the approx costs as I have them so far--- :woot:

Based on a car that costs $4500.00 at the block.

ITEM -Car Cost (FOB Yen) 550000 Exchange Rate (Yen to A$) 99.83= AUS$ 5509.00 (inc Japanese Agents handling cost).

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

1/BROKER FEE -------------------------------------------------------UP FRONT. $1,100./

2/FOB price in Australian dollars------------------Within week of purchase. $5,509./

3/Insurance @ 3.5% of 1-2-4-5 =$9410.00 pay on purchase of vehicle-- $ 321./

4/Shipping, wharf, Customs and agents fees ---Upon arrival 4-5 weeks. $1,800./
5/Import Duty & GST ----------------------------------Upon arrival 4-5 weeks. $1,011./

6/Compliance---------------------------------------Upon completion 12 weeks. $2,500./

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------SUB TOTAL-$12241./

7/(Add—Rego $350.00 , Tyres--$$600.00 , Roadworthy(?)=+$990)-------$990./

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------TOTAL$13231.00

Edited by BASHO
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451790-thinking-of-importing-costs/
Share on other sites

What vehicle are you getting?

I assume there is none in Australia for sale

What would you estimate resale?

AAAAAAAAAAAHHHRG---I'm still procrastinating :turned:

Probably an R34GT-t Auto , (I've had a manual one before).

There are a fair few available here but they a mainly of the 'enthusiastically over enhanced' variety.

Depends on what I end up getting.

13 g for an auto r34?

Surely not.

Importing, I have been assured that it can be done -- with patience .

There are a number on advertised here (In Australia) for less than $13K but 'modded' somewhat.

Edited by BASHO

Al, have you weighed up the fact that Auto R34s depreciate at a rate of knots?

Thus, you can pick up one already here at around your budget and...

i) have a choice of colour

ii) have a choice of mods

iii) physically inspect it before handing over money

iv) because car sales are slow from Dec-Feb, you can haggle more aggressively

yeah in all seriousness, if you cant find an auto 34 somethings wrong.

i would not go through the importing process to get one.

my mate bought one the other day in silver very clean for 9000 cos it was auto.

yeah in all seriousness, if you cant find an auto 34 somethings wrong.

i would not go through the importing process to get one.

my mate bought one the other day in silver very clean for 9000 cos it was auto.

Al, have you weighed up the fact that Auto R34s depreciate at a rate of knots?

Thus, you can pick up one already here at around your budget and...

i) have a choice of colour

ii) have a choice of mods

iii) physically inspect it before handing over money

iv) because car sales are slow from Dec-Feb, you can haggle more aggressively

Thanks for the replies guys , you are absolutely correct and if I could get to any of them I'm sure given very little time I could find one , however , I am currently living in Hervey Bay , which , whilst still theoretically on the planet actually in many regards may as well not be , this would seem to be one of those regards.

I also have to bear in mind that should I buy privately without actually physically seeing the car I'll be up for around $350.00 per inspection and given the somewhat optimistic descriptions given by some sellers ,-- I could see this turning out quite costly .

I've done more than a fair amount of searching and there are 3 that are very promising looking, two in Vic and one --particularly-- in SA which I'm following and if the price were not $2K over what I can bring one in for I'd likely be going for it.

I'll also note that I could be up for a road trip --not a bad thing but $ or up to $1000 maybe $1500.00 in freight buying onshore

So guys you can see buying onshore unless I can find what I'm after in Brisbane (which is still an 8-9 hour round trip by the timeyou've done what you went for) has some hiccups.

:cheers:

Edited by BASHO

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To be determined, Luke, to be determined. 😁 Definitely the car
    • It might be worth having a good look at the chassis behind the bumper then; most people prefer the series 2 look so it might have been changed to cheaper parts as part of an earlier repair
    • The car itself a series 2. I was just curious about the headlights and just wanted to confirm that they were series 1. Good to know the rest of the front end is series 1. It’ll be easier for me to find parts on the aftermarket side of things lol
    • If you've wired up the coils & injectors properly, & have the neo CAS loom for the trigger, it should all work. The VCT works the same way so just different plugs between s1 & neo. Assuming DBW if no IAC. Don't bother with the stock boost solenoid with g4x.
    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
×
×
  • Create New...