Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have a forged Rb26 bottom i need to sell. I had some big intentions with this engine but as in the car scene some people loose interest others have priorities; i have both. I began slowly sourcing parts to build me a strong engine but the costing of the completed build has made me realize im pissing against the wind. I have managed to source another complete engine and i just want my car back on the road. As in the topic its brand new and it comes with;

Rb26 block; honed, decked, new welsch plugs and professionally cleaned

Crank; balanced and has standard size ACL race bearings

Pistons; Cp forged with standard bore size

ROds; Eagle with standard size ACL race bearings

Studs; ARP conrod bolts and main stud kit

My price is $2500 for the whole setup and im happy for anyone to bring along their measuring tools to conduct their own measuring tests. I can ship Australia wide but at buyers expense. Im best contacted on 0408578627

post-22220-0-38029600-1418790276_thumb.jpg

post-22220-0-48931200-1418790300_thumb.jpg

post-22220-0-99722800-1418790324_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451831-fs-forged-rb26-bottom-end/
Share on other sites

If anyone else is interested in one, I also have a Built Rb26 bottom end, the car only has 23000Klms on it, but the internals have less,work completed and the car garaged 5 years ago BUT only 3000Klms on the car since the work .

RB 26 Block

New Nissan RB26 crank

JE/Nitto RB26 forged pistons

Nitto H beam connecting rods

ACL race bearings main/big end

Engine rebuild Hand filed rings with Dummy assemble and measure

Machine work on engine block

and whatever else left over from a RB30/26 Nitto 3.2 build

If you are interested you could also PM me, I will get more info from the builder as I do not know what else will be discarded with the build.

I would have to get the builder to give me a quality report on it or you could go and have a look, I am sure it would be OK.

I will ask the builder for a fair price for it and post it ASAP or an offer may be accepted

spoke to the mechanic at CRD and he said as it has only just been run in $4500 would be a fair price but fair and what you get are two different things,haha

Any of the other left over bits can go with it

You could have a look at it if you want?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Something to note, on an aftermarket BOV, it's quite possible to end up with the worst of both worlds, where on light throttle, there isn't enough force to open the BOV so you get small reversion and driveability issues, and with the venting to atmosphere, it dumps a lot of fuel on shifts. Realistically, dumping to atmosphere under power isn't a major driveability issues, compared to the issues of stalling from reversion. If you're getting up the throttle, then putting the clutch in, say on a shift up, but then don't release the clutch, yes, the engine can and will stall, but, just drive around it, and that's easy, let the clutch out in the next gear and the car rolling will keep it all running / going.who wants a hard hit of throttle and then to just let the motor idle anyway?   Main issue for driveability is blipping throttle and it wanting to stall, like when parking or trying to move in slow traffic.
    • As in they quoted one price, you mentioned the exhaust, and they promptly added $200 on top? Interesting.
    • Note that I'm not suggesting this is a great idea. Just saying that it is something that could be done to achieve a better outcome than the more shit ideas will provide.
    • I'd try removing it, connecting hoses and see if that helps. Depending on specs, it could actually be restricting the flow(it also might be helping).
    • Yes, that's a hybrid BOV. The adjustable spring load ones are about making teh pressure build up higher before venting, so you get a more agressive whoosh. That is not what I meant or what you want. By "restricting", I don't mean "keep it closed until the pressure is higher, then open it fully". I mean "open it as soon as it is required, but only have a small port area, so that the flow rate out of it is slowed down". The pressure will rise to be higher than a bigger ported BOV would provide, but it would do while it is venting. The idea is to slow down the rate at which the replacement eair is flowing past the AFM, to reduce the magnitude of the air flow signal peak, to reduce the amount of fuel that is added per revolution.
×
×
  • Create New...