Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have a forged Rb26 bottom i need to sell. I had some big intentions with this engine but as in the car scene some people loose interest others have priorities; i have both. I began slowly sourcing parts to build me a strong engine but the costing of the completed build has made me realize im pissing against the wind. I have managed to source another complete engine and i just want my car back on the road. As in the topic its brand new and it comes with;

Rb26 block; honed, decked, new welsch plugs and professionally cleaned

Crank; balanced and has standard size ACL race bearings

Pistons; Cp forged with standard bore size

ROds; Eagle with standard size ACL race bearings

Studs; ARP conrod bolts and main stud kit

My price is $2500 for the whole setup and im happy for anyone to bring along their measuring tools to conduct their own measuring tests. I can ship Australia wide but at buyers expense. Im best contacted on 0408578627

post-22220-0-38029600-1418790276_thumb.jpg

post-22220-0-48931200-1418790300_thumb.jpg

post-22220-0-99722800-1418790324_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451831-fs-forged-rb26-bottom-end/
Share on other sites

If anyone else is interested in one, I also have a Built Rb26 bottom end, the car only has 23000Klms on it, but the internals have less,work completed and the car garaged 5 years ago BUT only 3000Klms on the car since the work .

RB 26 Block

New Nissan RB26 crank

JE/Nitto RB26 forged pistons

Nitto H beam connecting rods

ACL race bearings main/big end

Engine rebuild Hand filed rings with Dummy assemble and measure

Machine work on engine block

and whatever else left over from a RB30/26 Nitto 3.2 build

If you are interested you could also PM me, I will get more info from the builder as I do not know what else will be discarded with the build.

I would have to get the builder to give me a quality report on it or you could go and have a look, I am sure it would be OK.

I will ask the builder for a fair price for it and post it ASAP or an offer may be accepted

spoke to the mechanic at CRD and he said as it has only just been run in $4500 would be a fair price but fair and what you get are two different things,haha

Any of the other left over bits can go with it

You could have a look at it if you want?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...