What should I get first? FMIC, boost controller, dump, front pipe?

[wilch]

Hi guys,

I need some advice, what do you reckon I should get first?

Which will give me more bang for my buck at this stage?

FMIC (can't really afford atm), boost controller, dump, front pipe, or dump and front pipe?

I've currently got a 3.5 inch HKS exhaust from the cat back, and pod filter.

wil..

[rsx84]

fmic would be my first choice but if you've only got the cat back exhaust then get the front turbo back pipe as that will be a great help! m2c

[Jay95R33]

Yepp, get the rest of the exhaust done first.

Dump/front pipe and a high flow cat. Dump/front pipe all-in-one will be about $300, highflow 3 inch cat about $200. Put them on yourself to save some bucks.

Then maybe a high flow panel filter (unless you already have one), or a cold air box for your pod (if you have one).

Then get a 'good' bleed valve to up the boost.

Then save some bucks for a FMIC or adj cam gear

J

[wilch]

Thanks guys.

So you reckon that getting the front half of the exhaust done will be the best bang for my buck?

Would I feel the gains more than if I just got an electronic boost controller installed and up'd the boost to 10psi?

[Sydneykid]

Hi Wilch, an Autospeed style boost controller (Norgren valve based) for $100 and a Power FC ($900) would be my next choice, nothing else will give the same result (+30 rwkw). You are going to need it soon anyway to get rid of the over boost protection, 180 kph speed limit, rich A/F ratios and retarded timing and all the other things that stop the other mods making the power that they can.

My 20 cents worth, hope it helps

[2BNVS]

id definatley finish the exhaust, it will spool up quicker and mid range was extremeley noticable when i got mine done...

cheers...ben.

[Bass Junky]

yep, as sydneykid said, the Comp would be the best.

Much better $ per kilowatt.

Then once you have that tuned, think about the rest of the exhaust.

[wilch]

Cheers guys

I'm leaning towards a boost controller first at the moment. Getting rid of the dual stage 5psi/7psi@4500rpm thing should beef up the midrange noticeably for the moment.

Then I'll get the dump/front done, and get the computer when I get the FMIC (so i only have to get it tuned once).

wil..

[Guest Robo's]

If its an early model, expect it too run like a dog when you boost it

[wilch]

it's a 97 series 2.

Also only planning on running 7psi for the low boost, and 10psi for the high boost mode.

[cameron]

If you get a front mount and dump pipe the boost goes up a bit any way. to about 9 psi,

You dont want to have high inlet temps so i'd surgest a front mount to keep the temperatures cool before boosting. Also theirs no point forcing more air (by more boost) into your motor if it carnt breath properly. - (dump pipe and front mount)

[paulr33]

why not just run 10psi all the time

[dstylez]

is 10psi safe to run everyday with just a full 3" exhaust?

[wilch]

why not just run 10psi all the time

Would that be "safe"?

have 10psi as the low and 12psi as the high or something?

I was thinking 7psi because I thought it'd be more "fuel efficient" (I know, I know... silly and stuff).

I should be getting the dump+front within the 2 weeks after getting the boost controller. Then an FMIC and computer a month after that.

wil..

[Steve]

A decent high flow cat and cat back, you should be pushing 9psi without a bleed or EBC.

Management - get everything running well, and smoothly

FMIC - cool the intake charge down THEN turn up the boost, around 12 psi is nice and safe - should see around 200rwkw.

Just be aware, when you fit the FMIC, you may need a new clutch, I did.

My 0.02c incl

[Spook's_Skyline]

whats the go with FMIC for mildly modded r33s?

ive got exhaust, dump pipe and boosted at 11psi

dont want to go overboard with mods, so what size fmic should i be looking at?

im thinking of getting an R33 gtr one? that a good size?

if not, what is a good size?

[Zahos]

with a full turbo back exhaust, hi-flow cat and FMIC I run about 8psi (0.55 kg/cm^2)

I would suggest completing your exhaust first before anything...

a FMIC is almost useless, unless you can raise the boost with a decent amount of air flow. To save money on a boost controller for now, there is a thread here that explains how to switch you standard solenoid to run in high boost mode all the time.

Once you have invested in a good pneumatic valve setup (the norgren valve in this and then this articles, that Sydneykid mentioned), you should then move on to a better intercooler. (I use the norgren valve setup myself -including the check valve in part 2, and it works rather well for me)

Your next step would then be aftermarket management, or a SAFC to lean out your mixtures to a flat 12:1 A/F ratio. Getting aftermarket management once you have done all these mods, will save you cash on tuning, as you do it once rather than after every mod.

Keep in mind, that you wont see a big gain after every mod, until you go the aftermarket management. The standard ECU will richen fuel mixtures and retard timing when you start running more boost as a safety measure and rob you of power.

That's the most cosst effective approach I can think of for basic mods, and it is the path I took after reading many users posts about their experiences.

[paulr33]

an r33 gtr fmic is good for upto 300rwkw so it should be fine

make sure the piping is suited for it also and not the stock piping

[WazR32GTSt]

if you are just looking for a once-off upgrade for that little bit more power than some ECU tuning/aftermarket management would be a good option.

however...

once you are bitten by the modification bug you won't want to stop there

i agree with Zahos in that if you have a desired path that you wish to take with your modifications (ie exhaust/fmic/boost) that you seem to have expressed in your posts, then do all the 'bolt-on' mods first and than once its all finished get the management (ECU) organised. saves on tuning as you only have to get it done once rather than after each time you do a mod.

my order from stock skyline to mild beast would be:

- dump/front pipe

- high-flow panel filter + cold-air intake

- cat-back exhaust

- bleed valve (12psi on R32 or 10psi on R33)

- GTR camshafts (great cheap upgrade on rb20 but not sure of rb25)

- ECU retune / aftermarkt management

then if you decide that your pockets are real deep then the next set of upgrades aren't going to be cheap and the cost of a re-tune will be insignificant compared to the cost of the mod / fitting so can be justified...

good luck with it all

Waz.

[rev210]

lightweight flywheel --- $500 = 0.5 sec 1/4 mile improvement.

My old R33 gtst ran a standard intercooler and still ran low 13's with a poor 60ft on the stock turbo.