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ok i dont know much about technicality..i have a 3 inch catback exhaust..i haven't checked under the car..just been told the exhaust is only catback...but if i was gonna get new and big front/dump pipe..wont i have to change the cat to a bigger one too? if not wont that restrict gas that i could let go? thanks

ok another dumb question...will the flange size and bolt holes all be the same pattern and size for any 3" aftermarket pipes?

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A aftermarket dump/front pipe and cat back back (JJR or Xforce for example) will bolt up to a stock cat.

However, you should upgrade the cat anyway to a 3" high flow cat when upgrading your whole exhaust to get the most out of your exhaust system.

If you haven't got an exhaust on yet, have a look at www.justjap.com as they have complete exhaust bolt on kits for standard turboed skylines. That includes dump/front pipe, 3"cat and cat back for a very reasonable price compared to japanese brands. Otherwise head down to an exhaust shop and get a quote on a custom system.

  • 10 months later...

you need to use the search function. it will take you way past 200 and also right past 300rwkw lol

on a serious note search is your friend. there is a sticky up top which should help

BUT

full turbo back exhaust, FMIC, high flow fuel pump boost controller and a tune (flash your stock ECU) running 10psi should get you close to 200rwkw maybe 190ish while keeping you in the safety zone of the stock turbo running around 10psi.

then look into high flow turbo, PFC, bigger injectors, cam gears that will get you past 200 into 204rwkw (which is pretty much what im running on my 34 achieving that while keeping it all safe with a nice safe tad rich tune.)

  • 2 months later...

R33 serII, i have-

-Full 3" zost

-K&N filter

-Apexi front mount

-Turbotech manual boost controller set to 9-10psi

-Split fire coils (installing friday)

-Nismo Fuel pump (installing friday)

---------------------------------------------------------

I want to run 14 psi but ofcouse on 12+psi the ecu cuts out. Whats the cheapest say; chip, safc, fuel cut defender, etc anythign like that that will allow me to run 14 psi without probs and cut out/misfires. I will stop at 14psi so i need cheapest mod possible? what do you guys suggest?

Yepp, get the rest of the exhaust done first.

Dump/front pipe and a high flow cat. Dump/front pipe all-in-one will be about $300, highflow 3 inch cat about $200. Put them on yourself to save some bucks.

Then maybe a high flow panel filter (unless you already have one), or a cold air box for your pod (if you have one).

Then get a 'good' bleed valve to up the boost.

Then save some bucks for a FMIC or adj cam gear :P

J

Hi All,

just on the topic of getting all the exhaust first mod, just got my one done except hi-flow cat(still using stock cat), now, please someone enlighten me here, i went for a cheaper exhaust brand, i have the DRIFT cat-back 3", with DRIFT i think i made a mistake of getting it bcoz its not really that loud but i was rushing of getting my exhaust done so i went to autobarn and got one of the DRIFT, for the dump pipe/front pipe, customized 3" pipe, and now i dont know if i should get the hi-flow cat from a local exhaust shop or get a branded name one and paid +++$ amount of dollars...which one should i go?? local shop?? or imports?? pls reply..

i have been told also that i need to change the stock fuel pump first before doing anything like boosting and putting ECU on my car, now, which one should i do first?? would my stock fuel pump keep up the amount of boost (ei:12Psi) if ever i decided not to change the pump just yet or bad idea??and should i get a new boost gauge as well or leave the stock one on??before boosting my car up??

thanx all..

Edited by myRB25DETT
Hi All,

just on the topic of getting all the exhaust first mod, just got my one done except hi-flow cat(still using stock cat), now, please someone enlighten me here, i went for a cheaper exhaust brand, i have the DRIFT cat-back 3", with DRIFT i think i made a mistake of getting it bcoz its not really that loud but i was rushing of getting my exhaust done so i went to autobarn and got one of the DRIFT, for the dump pipe/front pipe, customized 3" pipe, and now i dont know if i should get the hi-flow cat from a local exhaust shop or get a branded name one and paid +++$ amount of dollars...which one should i go?? local shop?? or imports?? pls reply..

i have been told also that i need to change the stock fuel pump first before doing anything like boosting and putting ECU on my car, now, which one should i do first?? would my stock fuel pump keep up the amount of boost (ei:12Psi) if ever i decided not to change the pump just yet or bad idea??and should i get a new boost gauge as well or leave the stock one on??before boosting my car up??

thanx all..

i am using a catco 3" cat from justjap, cost me 175.

once your inlet/exhaust is done, pay the peanuts for a dyno run to check AFR's, its cheap insurance!

R33 serII, i have-

-Full 3" zost

-K&N filter

-Apexi front mount

-Turbotech manual boost controller set to 9-10psi

-Split fire coils (installing friday)

-Nismo Fuel pump (installing friday)

---------------------------------------------------------

I want to run 14 psi but ofcouse on 12+psi the ecu cuts out. Whats the cheapest say; chip, safc, fuel cut defender, etc anythign like that that will allow me to run 14 psi without probs and cut out/misfires. I will stop at 14psi so i need cheapest mod possible? what do you guys suggest?

stay below 12(some say 10) PSI, as the standard turbos like to disintegrate, and can possibly damage your motor in the process!

  • 5 months later...

hay guys i red through thes 4 pages, and i noticed many people mentioning a tune before any mods, correct me if im wrong but after a few mods for example air flow with new exhaust new intake, require a retune? to refamiliarise the ecu with it?

  • 1 year later...

One thing people never properly consider, GET A RETURN FLOW AFTERMARKET INTERCOOLER!! IF you are going aftermarket (ie not just bunging in a r34 smic or whatever), you can avoid a lot of headaches with piping, not to mention the legal aspects, by just getting a return flow! They are within $50 of the same price, much easier to install (its like 3 joins instead of 6), and will also give less turbo lag too!

  • 1 year later...

had a good read of this, and must say that the person who started this has done very well, however, i keep noticing that everyone wants to keep the AFM, why keep this on your car instead of getting the map sensor and removing the AFM?, i've been told it removes a huge restriction on the car, and as such produces more power, plus having to get a new AFM (Z32), cost a lot of money

Well firstly its not a huge restriction.

When you are upgrading the ecu you won't be basing your decision on afm or map sensor... just on the merits of the ecu and you will get a better afm or a map sensor based on the ecu.

Well firstly its not a huge restriction.

When you are upgrading the ecu you won't be basing your decision on afm or map sensor... just on the merits of the ecu and you will get a better afm or a map sensor based on the ecu.

fair enough, i also think there is more stuffing around with the AFM then to just get a map sensor with however many bar you want to run, like with me i'm going a heltec with a 2 bar map sensor later on this year and as i have already done pretty much everything usual, like FMIC, better air filter system, boost controller running at 10 PSI and 3" from turbo back, the ECU was to me the next logical step into gaining more power.

also had people tell me that the AFM restricts a fair bit of power, hence why i opted for the heltec with the 2 bar map sensor, plus it comes with a EBC attached to it

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