Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You could prob find a half decent 33 GTST for 15-16k, perhaps a 32 GTST with some minor mods.. Def go the GTST whether it be 33 or 32, both great cars. Or If you could find a series 1 S14 could be another decent option...

First car, holden gemini.

Edit, I'll explain more.

Cheap to modify, your not gonna drop the right foot and kill yourself.

They can be fairly zippy for what they are..

Panels etc are gonna be easy to source and cheap to fix. Insurance and rego will be cheap. (Not to mention if you smash it up it'll blend in with most of the others around).. What better way to find out that cars cost money, the lines between modifying, repairing, and upgrading is a big step. And with a gemi at least you'd be able to track your parts..

I agree with yogi000 and Bax,

Get something not so powerful, My R31 is my first car and it IMO it's still a little too powerful for me and I have had my licence 6 months. Get a 4A-C sprinter or something, then put a 4A-GZE in it when you get the need for more power.

But since you want an R33 so much you probably will...Personally I wouldn't get a NA because I would always feel like I'm in an inferior car...but thats just me. NA's are only about .5 of a second faster than a good stock R31 at most, so it has *reasonably* sensible power.

You could get a shitbox then save for a good GTS-T and then you would have more driving experience,...just goota make sure you don't have to spend money on the shitbox!

but thats the thing im not that much of an inexperienced driver, i have driven skylines before, as well as some cordias and i have done an advanced driving course. at the moment im driving my mums mazda 3 sp23 (not a bad car) bout 120 kws. so im in the market for a car of my own. i learnt on some shitboxes, like an old nissan pulsar and an old mazda 323

how about an MR2?

Another thing - what would the oldest year you would buy?

This is the newest and cleanest 180sx i could find for around your money.

260974.jpg

- WHITE 1995 NISSAN 180SX

- $15,900

- 75,000 km

- 5 speed Manual

- 4 cylinder Petrol Turbo 2.0L (1998cc)

- Reg Expiry : APR-2005

- Sunroof

- Airbag

- Alloys

- Tinted Windows

- Cd Player

180sx - carsales

i think it already has an exhaust by the looks of it but it might just be the muffler.

1993 NISSAN 180SX

2044025.jpg

- $14,990

- 83,976 km

- Manual

- Red top sr20det

- CD Player

- central locking

- Turbo Back 3.5" Stainless Sports Exhaust

- T28 300hp Ball Bearing hi-flowed Garret Turbo Running Approx 14 p.s.i

- Fuel & Ignition EMS Computer

- 12 CD Stacker

- Alarm

- 17" Sparco rims

- Immobiliser

- body kit

- Engineered

- lowered springs

- Dyno Tuned, 183.2

180sx

as stock red top sr20det puts out:

150kW @ 6000 rpm

275Nm @ 4000 rpm

that one puts out 183.2kw, thats quite a nice figure for a first car. The turbo has been high flowed, exhaust, its lowered, has a bodykit. But its running 14psi with the stock intercooler.

I reckon its a good buy for the price and what you get for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
×
×
  • Create New...