Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right, im currently relocating my battery to my boot on my R32 Gtst, from factory ( or how i bought the car) off the postive post on the battery it had the main starter cable running to the starter motor, postive wire running to the fuse box (this then splits into several, will post picture) and the positive feed for the fuel pump (brown wire with eyelet also seen in photo). My question is, can i run the positive feed from my battery using 0 gauge wire directly the the post on my starter motor, then run a positive feed from the starter to wires coming out of my fuse box? i will also wire the fuel pump directly to the battery in the boot. Also i will earth the wires that were on the negative on the battery in the engine bay. Will this work fine with no issues? or do i need to use a junction box of some description to run my main power feed to then run postive feeds off there. I hope this makes some sence.

thanks, Brad

post-138234-0-94906300-1420232185_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452272-incorrect-or-correct-battery-wiring/
Share on other sites

Assuming it doesn't need to split off anywhere, that should be fine. I've seen plenty of engines hooked up that way. If in doubt though, you can get a insulated block and mount it in the bay somewhere, run the pos to that and 2 more to fuse and starter.

  • Like 1

Oh and I didn't mention (but remembering now), Your really should put a fuse in line to the feed to Jblock/starter. And make it big. Like ~200A. If you are going to have a few metres of battery wire running in your vehicle, you are most certainly going to need to protect it. If that shorts your car will go up in flames.

this is what i did in my R34 my battery was in the engine bay and all i did was run 0ga upto the original battery location and then connected all the wires that went onto the battery post to the fusable link end and i also have another fuse at the battery end about 100mm from the battery. so at the battery i have a 200A fuse and in the engine bay i have a 150A so that if the engine or accessories blow the fuse it will kill the 150A fuse but if the main 0ga wire shorts out somewhere along the body theres a 200A that it will kill

20141122_195458_zps335adb1b.jpg

No the fusable link is generally in the fuse box so normally off the battery to starter motor run theres no fuse. That black thing next to the oil filter is my fuse i do alot of car audio and its just a fuse that you can get from JB HiFi autobarn who ever mine is a pole type

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...