Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey im new to all this fourm maadness and into the stagea community but i have some questions starting with the door panels i was wondering how to get all the door panels off if anybody had pics of how that would be most helpful. wanting to put new speakers in cause when i bought it came with blown speakers and its brutal driving a stagea with no audio and stock exhaust when im used to listening to a loud droney exhaust from my rx7. sorry for going off track just need some insight how to take off the door panels. thanks in advance!

post-138464-0-47096300-1421303902_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452741-s2-door-panels-and-speaker-upgrade/
Share on other sites

This is for a S1, but I'm guessing it's the same......?????

Screws that need to be removed-

* bottom of the door card (3 from memory)

* under a cap in the door grab

* under a cap half way up, towards the front of the card

Carefully pry the surround off around the door handle latch and then carefully pull the door card towards you to release the clips and lift the whole card upwards to release it from the window ledge.

Once off, you'll need to disconnect the two plugs to the window switch and mirror switch.

Speaker removal should be pretty self explanatory after that.

Series 1 & 2 should be the same, there were minimal changes between them, and I don't think any of those changes would have applied to removal/replacement of the doors, door cards or speakers.

One thing to note...if you're installing splits...consider where you're going to mount your crossovers. depending on the size of the crossovers you can get away with mounting them on the door card (in the cavity that makes up the arm rest)

I have that issue at the moment....I've got a set of Boston SL60's in my car (Been in there for about 4 years now) and the crossovers are freaking huge...in the passenger door it's fine but on the drivers side I had to take out the case and cover in a anti static bag just to mount it (yeah it's ghetto...but it works)....I'm going to look at new set of splits that have a smaller crossovers so I keep them mounted in the door card

One thing to note...if you're installing splits...consider where you're going to mount your crossovers. depending on the size of the crossovers you can get away with mounting them on the door card (in the cavity that makes up the arm rest)

I have that issue at the moment....I've got a set of Boston SL60's in my car (Been in there for about 4 years now) and the crossovers are freaking huge...in the passenger door it's fine but on the drivers side I had to take out the case and cover in a anti static bag just to mount it (yeah it's ghetto...but it works)....I'm going to look at new set of splits that have a smaller crossovers so I keep them mounted in the door card

I have the same splits in my car, and I'm sure I still managed to get the driver's side crossover in the door somehow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can see between the water jacket and cyl 3 there wasn't a hard line of combustion gas. It certainly appears that the issue is coming from there. Yes, checked the tension. All at 100ft lbs where I set them 5 years ago. These blocks can crack but generally when they have been over bored. Mine is only 0.5mm oversize at 89.5mm. They break between cylinders around the 91mm mark. No sign of that with mine. My gut feeling is the head gasket lifted a while back when the studs stretched and i bandaided it by retorquing the studs. It's finally let go.
    • My Nismo 1.5 churps a bit on reverse turns when cold, but besides that feels like a stock diff.
    • Yes, but, I paid cash and I'm pretty sure the receipt was in the bin 10 minutes after I got home Note to self, keep all receipts
    • Bunnings would have just handed you your money back on that one!
    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
×
×
  • Create New...