Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get your hands on a return flow Blitz SE is the preferred choice of IC's then you won't need a angle grinder.

You will have to gently manipulate the front bar, and the front reinforcement bar.

Stock -

post-89929-0-41373000-1421404482_thumb.png

Then a little cutting -

post-89929-0-46385900-1421404514_thumb.jpg

I'm pretty sure theres a guide on SAU somewhere in the archives or "how to" section on this.

Difficulty is like a 3/10

  • Like 1

With the blitz return flow. Does that hook straight up to existing stock pipes? Meaning do the pipes from the IC go to where the sidemount existing pipes are?

Correct

post-109116-14214109333818_thumb.jpg

Buy a universal fmic that can be mounted without any chopping, mount it, have piping made to suit with minimal chopping e.g a return flow and then u just need the original pipe holes made larger under the airbox. Just an idea.

Edit: buy return flow, use ur existing pipes is a great idea.

Edited by FordyR31

I have a blitz SE on a R34. You do need an angle grinder.

Blitz even include a picture of what you need to cut.. It isn't much, but if you cannot cut the REO bar then well its going to get annoying.

(Dunno about r33)

If I could do it again, I'd get a good core then make sure the piping fits with no cutting by asking a fabricator to make up the cooler pipes and brackets to fit.

Series 1 R33 with Blitz cooler using the stock pipes through the bodywork.

Small amount of front bar grinder work required, nothing dramatic. Have a mate hold the bar while you mark, cut and test try.

Suggest you double clamp all the silicon hoses, bit of a mission to get at some in the future.

Use 8mm??x ¼" drive socket to tighten them, not a screw driver.

Mount the cross over hose clamps such that you can access then from below but angled slightly to give max road clearance.

You will hit the cross over pipe on big speed bumps or poorly designed driveways and then that driver's side silicon joiner and clamps are susceptible to damage.

post-73571-0-23398400-1421521405_thumb.jpg

post-73571-0-33903000-1421521422_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...