Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

My R33 has developed an odd idle issue when you back off acceleration.

The car has an auto box. You can be driving along and take your food off the gas to slow down for a set of lights and the Revs will occasionally drop as low as 500rpm and then bounce back to normal; this does not happen every time though.

I have had two occasions when the engine stopped, however it starts and idles perfectly and drives without issue.

I've cleaned the AFM, new air cleaner, new plugs. Any advices?

Thanks

Denis

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/
Share on other sites

Atmo BOV? - Get rid of it

Factory ECU? - After cleaning AAC valve, try resetting the ECU (disconnect battery, operate lights etc, to drain residual power, re-connect battery, start car)

It has been covered qutie a few times before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7463815
Share on other sites

The engine was fully rebuilt with forged piston, greddy intake manifold, larger injectors, hi flowed turbo, turbosmart blowoff valve, bigger intercooler, Z32 AFM (cleaned regularly) etc etc. The engine has only done 12,000kms in 4 years. There are no mud issues in the AAC or any of the usual issues that are eluded to the great how sections.

Idle is perfect with no fluctuations while sitting. It's only occasionally when you take you foot off the gas to slow for lights etc that the idle drops to 500rpm or lower and then rights itself. This has only occurred in the last few weeks.

I was swaying towards the Turbosmart blowoff valve, but all checked and cleaned and appears OK

Would a TPS cause this? I thought it unlikely.

Sorry if I was somewhat grumpy; you get that way when you're over 60.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7463852
Share on other sites

I dont have any experience with Autos but I had issues when I went from atmo BOV back to stock. Cleaned AAC and all that and it didnt help. Reset the ECU and it returned to idle fine

But im not sure if you are running stock ECU

The TPS on auto has a digital and analog input to the ECU. The on off part is important on Autos if I recall correctly ( the analog voltage signal is important to both auto and manual) the digital input is easy to check with a meter, run a continuity check accross the 2 pin plug with throttle closed and then open the throttle. It should go from closed circuit to open (or vice versa, been a while since I checked)

The other analog sensor is best checked with consult or the correct software for your ECU. Should be 0.45V

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7463875
Share on other sites

Hey Dennis, try turning your idle air screw counter clockwise till the engine starts to rev higher. Then turn it clockwise one full turn. Sometimes people fool around with this screw and it can cause major idle issues as you have described. Another possible fix could be to lean off the fuel under 800rpm but this depends on the tune in that area so may not help. I am always concerned about changes to the blow off valve as this usually always causes issues. Make sure it is plumbed back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7464343
Share on other sites

RB25's tend to want to run a bit rich at idle. I think as rich as 13.2:1 I've seen to give a nice smooth idle.

Off the top of my head I used to run 13.6:1 when I had the Power FC in mine.

Agree about the idle screw, was thinking that the other day. If its wound all the way in the solenoid/valve might be able to compensate just enough to idle, but when its going from higher revs to idle, it can't adjust quick enough or far enough to give a smooth idle.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7464663
Share on other sites

  On 25/01/2015 at 12:37 AM, barretdenis said:

Well after checking all possibilities I turned to the Turbosmart BOV. After winding it back to the softest setting I discovered no more idle issues.

Why?? You tell me.

Easy the stock.ecu likes having the stock bov, a aftermarket bov on softer settings are more like the factory bov

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452860-r33-idle-issues/#findComment-7467261
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
  • Create New...