Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Actually i remove all calipers and clean them thoroughly, paint them before going back on, cut off stone guards if tracking it, braided lines, brake cooling ducting, decent pads research that, decent slotted rotors research that, keep shims or get new project mu shims some pads have rubber backing or sticking backing, research that, get some copper grease, research that... See i can get carried away

Something I have never heard anyone else say, but I have found purely from personal experience is worn wheel bearings (even the tiniest play) can cause brake squeal because it allows the rotor to move imperfectly in relation to the brake pads. This causes uneven wear and after a while a squeel. If someone is out of options its worth changing your wheel bearings, machining your rotors, installing new pads and seeing if the noise goes away.

Edited by sonicz

Usually worn bearings lead to brake shudder and disc thickness variation.

The disc moves around between the pads leading to uneven wear moreso than brake noise.

Ive seen cars with seriously worn bearing never make a sound, the only hint was bearing noise and then brake shudder.

  • 2 weeks later...

took the r33 to another mechanic (works on alot of performance cars) it was apparently the rear pads, they swapped over the Bendix pads with Repco thermoquite ones & the squeak did go away.

now a week after it squeals again ..

imsomadritenow f**k

wat to do?

really considering selling the car after getting the brakes done by mechanics twice and 10 times myself just for it to squeak again

The answer to the problem is written time and time again throughout this forum and many others, and also sarlier in this thread...

So your experiencing people that dont know brakes, dont give up.

Its not your pads, its not your rotors, its a high frequency vibration, go get some copper grease,

one thing i know is that its definitely not a copper grease issue iv used a kilo of anti squeal behind the pads aswell as applying copper grease without no effect

what do these marks mean?

http://i.imgur.com/kKX9wcv.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/8V7yyrX.jpg

iv only had these pads for less than 10 days now

I think you need to rough them up and then go bed your brakes in. And be mean about it.

Kind of looking like they are glazing.

I have no shims or copper grease and just put in a set of intima sr pads and have no squeel.

thats the thing, even if that did get rid of the squeaking a week later it wil just rise again

i need to know the root cause of this

Squeal is vibration so if roughing them up doesnt allow them to stop the surfaces jumping around on eachother then you need some baffling to take up the vibration. Chamfer the leading edge of pad, if it still squeals then your shim rubber is very good

Post 3 pictures.

1 of your assembled caliper looking into it so we can see how the pad assembly sits.

2 of all the shims, clips and pins being run taken off the pads and the back of the pads.

And 3 of the pistons faces in the caliper and the leading/brakeing edge where the pads put thier force into the calipers.

Those pictures you showed of the pads show they were not bedded in yet, some pads make noise till they bed in.

  • 1 month later...

Pad compound has a lot to do with squeal as it generated movement at a high frequency.


I cured many by making alloy slugs that fit into the piston and are about 1 mm thicker than the original shim, machined them down so they hold the pad dead flat and true on the rotor with no movement thus no squeal.

Remember you do not necessarily need to bed brakes these days ( Depends on the Pad ) and in some cases if you do you will over heat the compound resulting in hardening of the pad and reduced grip and more vibration thus squeal.

2 or more spots of Silastic applied to the back of the pad and pressed into place before it sets after allowing it to set this provides a tiny shock absorbing layer :) in a similar fashion to the PBR Squeal Stop solution.

Those pads in the pic look normal, those scuff marks that run diagonally don't. Is that from roughing them up last time?

Have you had the calipers inspected for sticking pistons and have you checked the spring plates don't allow the pads to move up and down in the caliper.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...