Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just got a 500hp fuel pump fitted to my car on Friday, and then had it tuned and dyno'd...

The car has a double dump into 3" system into a 3.5" system, HKS filter and turbo smart dual stage boost controller spiking from about 1.0bar and then holding 0.9bar and the new fuel pump...

I got 125kw's at the wheels at 121kp/h, which is about 200hp at the wheels i think..

Does this sound good or bad?

I made 111kw's on 0.7bar...

Made around 600nm of tourque

??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4532-dyno-results/
Share on other sites

Have a look at my www site its got a few dyno runs there.

The bigger fuel pump will make it run really really rich.

You will loose power.

But now you are going to have to put up with it until you buy a fuel computer or get the ecu remapped.

Stock mine made 115rwkw.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4532-dyno-results/#findComment-71145
Share on other sites

670NM of torque???

stock a R32 has 270 NM or so.

LS1's don't even put that sort of figure out! I think someone is having you on.

my R32 with exhaust made 202RWHP (150KW) on a supposedly high reading dyno in perth (myaree) while the others (Supra TT's/Soarer TT's with exhausts) were making 250RWHP so it was in relative proportion.

Shaun

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/4532-dyno-results/#findComment-71250
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
    • So ... I got everything disconnected and started dropping the frame. Three of the four mounts started to come down but the fourth one (the one with the nut that gave me all the trouble) won't budge. The inner metal sleeve stays up tight against the chassis rail although the outer part of the mount drops a bit (and can be levered quite a lot more) but it's just stretching the rubber bushing. So I reckon there's some serious corrosion inside the inner sleeve and holding it tight to the lug at the top of the bolt. Tried everything I can think of so far: penetrating oil, whacking the top of the sleeve to vibrate it and wedge a screwdriver blade in there. I also tried to turn the inner sleeve a bit by hitting it with a chisel at the bottom. It's stuck solid. What do you think about cutting the rubber with a blade so I can drop the subframe around it anyway. Then worry about getting the inner sleeve off after? Will that work? Is it gonna give me even more problems?
×
×
  • Create New...