Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

sometimes, well most of the time i have it flat stick or slight throttle it bounces off the limiter and bogs down, missfires and slowly looses revs and power, its like what happens when your spark plug gap is ****ed...it was doing it with a gap of .8 then i went to a .7 but still does it. if i back off and back on the throttle it will sometimes get better but once it hits the limiter again itll bog down, missfire and loose revs even with foot flat or slightly, its like as if its surging out. this is mainly halfway through a slide (off street). all i want it to do is bounce off the limiter cleanly for peace at mind.

whats a solution? should i close or open gap more or is it something else? timing perhaps? i got no idea

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45365-rb25det-off-limiter-bogging/
Share on other sites

The R34 will happily bounce off the rev limiter all day.

It used to be a slow pop pop pop as it hit limiter and then dropped spark then picked up again, but now with the light flywheel, its like a machine gun!

Nice.

Could be coils if it starts happening before you get to the limiter - mine starts misfiring at around 4500, and I don't usually see more than that because it feels terrible.

I understand that the car isn't running properly, but why do you want it to bounce off the limiter? If you're accelerating, hitting the limiter is costing you time, if you're doing a burnout, backing off the throttle a fraction should make bugger-all difference to smoke output, and if you're trying to drift, hitting the limiter generally means that you either have no throttle control or you're doing it wrong.

Learn throttle control - your car will thank you for it, and you'll be a better, quicker driver.

its not that i bounce it off the limiter often, its just the satisfaction that it will run cleanly if need be. all these people are sayin learn throttle control, learn throttle control, when clearly its not about that, i must explain a little better, as SOON as it hit the limiter, no bouncing off it, even without WOT, it still does it, sometimes doesnt even need to hit limiter, it just goes BRRRRR, looses revs and power and sometimes backfires hard. always when its under load.

sorry to confuse the subject but yea im not one of these 'lets just flatten it around a corner' style drivers.

  • 9 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...